We are standing in line behind the open truck which is delivering fresh produce to the little village of Zipolite. We say “village” because in reality there is only one main road which runs almost parallel to the beach front, where most of the little stores and restaurants are to be found. Of course, due to COVID-19, the majority of the restaurants and stores are closed, save for a couple of pharmacies and a few small stores.
We were very pleased to have found a farmer to deliver produce to our door, but once more stringent access control was put in place to prevent traffic in and out of the coastal villages, that delivery option came to an abrupt halt. We have two alternative sources for our food supply.
Even though this region of Oaxaca has very few cases of COVID-19, so far, at the level of the country, Mexico on April 22nd crossed the threshold of 10,000 reported cases and 1,000 dead. The spectre of COVID-19 lurks at the gate and our local community has yet to REALLY lock down. Our first priority all along has been to secure a stable food supply.
One source is the twice-weekly truck which brings a bounty of fruits and vegetables to Zipolite.
Other than the people waiting to buy their produce, the main street is almost deserted these days.
The second viable source of produce is from the nearby small fishing village of Puerto Angel. A few streets, a few stores with hand painted signs, very reminiscent of Cuba.
It has been remarkably easy to settle into life here in Zipolite. The fact that we both speak Spanish (Ben fluent, and mine rusty from six years of not speaking it on a regular basis) and are able to communicate with locals feels like quite a treat after so many years of life in Asia and not having proficiency with language there. Over a decade ago we started our Green Global Trek in Nicaragua where we lived for six years. That chapter of our lives gave us familiarity and comfort in Latin American settings.
We have come full circle.
Ben’s work is now 80 percent focused on bamboo centric activities, namely the launching of nurseries and orchestration of a reforestation campaign (based in the Philippines). In Nicaragua. we focused on providing low cost bamboo housing for indigenous populations. As part of that effort we had first set up nurseries and reforestation of bamboo as well. We attended our first conference focused around bamboo, over a decade ago in Puebla, Mexico. One more synchronicity: the bamboo company that Ben consults for today, is a contact we first made at that bamboo conference in Mexico years back.
Our life style during this “stay at home” period is not significantly different of what it is anywhere we have lived, COVID-19 aside. For this we are indeed fortunate and very grateful. We have managed to recreate a comfortable aesthetic home steps away from the beach in a friendly low cost environment.
Ben continues to work from home and we are used to being together almost 24/7. Since having a nomadic lifestyle and living across the world from our families, we have always connected with them online, so this is not new for us. Being in Mexico, though, means we can connect any time of the day as we no longer have the 12 hour time difference. What a treat!
We can hear the waves crashing from our bed. We head to the beach each morning for a swim and then during the heat of the day we stay in the house and use that time for work. April and May are the hottest months in Oaxaca, so we would be inside during the middle of the day even if there were no pandemic. We return to the beach at sundown for another swim. This is now our routine.
In normal times wherever we are, being “foodies”, we enjoy eating at different restaurants frequently. Not these days…. with almost everything closed. There are just two small beach cafes that still offer breakfast. As a result we have been cooking way more than usual and taking advantage of having an oven ~ a luxury that we did not have in either Vietnam and Sri Lanka.
Another culinary highlight: when we spot a fisherman throwing out his net one morning and bringing in a haul of something, we go to investigate.
It is apparently the season for sardinias ~ a tiny cousin of the sardine, which look more like anchovies but are in fact sardines. The fisherman is fishing for his family yet is happy to sell us 20 pesos (80c) worth of his large catch. He tells Ben how to remove the head and insides in order to prepare the sardines for cooking and offers up multiple ways of cooking them. We are not ready to leave the beach, but we ARE ready for breakfast. What to do?
Ben approaches the boutique hotel on the beach where a few guests are hunkering down during Corona. The restaurant is not officially open but they do make breakfasts for their guests. They agree to clean and cook the sardines for us, after offering their opinion about the best way to cook and eat their local sardinias.
In normal times, we try to go to yoga classes two to three times a week. Now that all yoga studios are closed and no classes to attend, we do our own daily morning yoga practice on the beach.
When one door closes a window opens…
For years I have wanted to learn Qi Gong ~ the ancient Chinese practise of flowing energy through conscious movements and thought. I tried, to no avail to find teachers in Sri Lanka and Vietnam. Imagine my surprise at finding a Qi gong master right here, on the beach. A nomad himself, who happens to be riding out the pandemic here, in Zipolite.
I drag Ben to our first class, which is just the two of us, on the beach at an appropriate distance. Ben is not as enthused as I am about learning Qi Gong. And yet… after the almost two hour session, he declares it “awesome!” upon completion. Success. We both look forward to learning more.
At sundown when there are more people at the beach, most of them seem to be rather oblivious to the concept of social distancing.
We are keeping our distance from humans, but enjoying close proximity to the canine population. We have lucked out in that this beach seems to be particularly dog friendly and there are quite a few regular characters that provide constant entertainment.
The Xolo has an important role in Mexican culture. “To the ancient Aztec and Maya, man’s best friend was also a hairless, ugly-cute healer, occasional food source, and, most importantly, guide to the Underworld.”
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/news/20
The Xolo is thought to be one of the first dog breeds of dogs in the world. According to Aztec mythology, this dog’s purpose was to guard humanity in life, and then guide the souls of the departed after death to reach the Underworld.
While settling into our lives in Zipolite, we till had to unwind our Viet Nam position and have been “closing out” our house in Hoi An at a distance. All our clothes were there, personal belongings and a combination of things like bamboo furniture, sheets, pillows and kitchen stuff.
Because we were feeding 3 stray cats every day, when we left Viet Nam for our short trip to Sri Lanka to close out our lives there, I found someone, Agata, through a mutual friend, to stay in our house in Hoi An while we were gone, so as to continue feeding the cats.
When we found out we could not re enter Viet Nam, Agata did a miraculous job of helping us to sort through the contents of the house, from top to bottom using WhatsApp video to go through all our household contents real time. It was a laborious process. I posted items for sale on a facebook page for expats and Agata met the buyers and sold almost everything, from furniture to our motorbike. She packed up a few boxes of selected clothes to ship to the U.S., using the money from the house sale. All said and done, the entire cost of shipping the boxes of paintings and other essentials came to a mere $150 due to the house sale.
We also donated our mini trampoline, yoga ball, yoga mats etc to the local orphanage for children to enjoy. Thank goodness for Agata or I have no idea how we would have solved the close out of our Viet Nam house.
Since COVID19 reared its ugly head, we have closed out both of our homes and lives in Sri Lanka and Viet Nam. Closure on both fronts.
Moving forward with our lives in Mexico.
You seem to be getting into a rhythm even after being interrupted by the pandemic. I do worry about your food supply. The beach exercises will help you stay limber and fit, and you have keen writing skills. Looking forward to the next page or chapter in your book of life.
Rusha we are definitely in a rhythm now ~ a little bit of a groundhogs day like so many others, but a good ground hogs day to be sure!
We have a fair amount of fruit frozen and dry goods but we prefer to eat fresh as long as we can and we are hopeful that our supply of produce will stay constant.
We are looking forward to exploring Mexico once the pandemic is behind us. Alas we are still just at the beginning here, so we still have a long ways to go.
Thanks for stopping by to read us and to leave your thoughts.
Peta & Ben
Your routine sounds absolutely fabulous and I love the photos and accompanying stories. I’m glad to read that things are being wrapped up nicely in your other home. I’ll be moving to Vancouver Island at the end of May. Although I am a bit daunted, I am excited to be moving. And guess what? I’ll be on the same side of the continent as you. Why, we’re going to be practically neighbours!!!😜
Deb
Thanks Deb, that’s a nice compliment. It is a really good feeling to know that we no longer need to pay rent in Sri Lanka or Viet Nam and that I might actually get a pair of sandals in one of the boxes. I had one pair with me when we went to Sri Lanka and recently a dog ran off with one of my sandals here leaving me with nada. Ben bought me a $2 pair of fit flops from the market, but a little variety will be nice…. Of course who knows how long the boxes will take to get here. That is a whole other story.
Very excited for you for your move to Vancouver Island! We have heard such wonderful things about that part of the world. When winter comes you can come and visit us in the sun… Almost neighbors 🙂
Peta
Oh boy! I would love to come for a visit and meet you guys in person. Likewise, I hope you can get up to Vancouver Island some day. I have rented a 2 bedroom apartment – just saying!😉
Deb
Thanks for such a lovely invite! We would love to visit Vancouver Island one day and how fun it would be to meet you in person….
Peta
Nice place! You are making the best of a good situation there! Will you stay for a while? I mean, longer than you first intended? Sounds like you could. I love all the thatch, by the way, in your wonderful photos….always a good sign of the simple life.
Hi Johnny
We never use the word “permanently” or the word “forever”.. because in our dictionary there ain’t no such thing. However, we do like to make wherever we are our home base. And so here we are. In the current context, a fair question is whether we are here only for the duration of the COVID19 lockdown or whether we intend to stay beyond that?
This is now our home base for the foreseeable future, pandemic or otherwise.
Most of the construction here, even the more upscale have thatch roofs, which does have a way of keeping life simple. This area also is vulnerable to hurricanes around June/July and a thatch roof has the benefit of being easier and cheaper to rebuild.
Peta & Ben
MOST importantly, Peta, you look GREAT.
2. Maria’s shop is awesome
3. Good job with the Sardinia’s, Ben
4. I love the dogs
5. Excellent scoring the chi dude
6. Birdwatching? You know their names already? Is there an app for that?
7. I’m stealing your idea for cornmeal pizza dough in the cast iron skillet. Dinner tomorrow. Aaron agrees.
8. So glad you’re back in the time zone.
Well thank you Sharon!! 🙂
We both LOVE your list!
We are neophytes when it comes to birdwatching. Although we really enjoy and appreciate living somewhere with exotic birds. Ben is the bird whisperer.. he always talks to birds where ever we are and they always talk back. This particular bird was pretty distinctive so it was easy to research it and find out the name. If there is an app for birdwatching, we want it!!!
Yes, in a cast iron skillet. Just make sure you brush some olive oil before you put the polenta in and then you need to put the pan in the fridge for the cornmeal to set for a few hours before cooking. Let us know how it turns out….
It is fantastic to be in the same time zone. Love our chats.
P&B
xoxo
I was thinking about the two of you just yesterday, so I was so happy to see this post. Zipolite appears to be the perfect place to ride this thing out… and maybe stay for a long time. It’s so beautiful! The next time we visit Oaxaca, I would definitely like to add a trip to the coast onto our agenda. The Xoloitzcuintle dogs figure prominently in the Mexican Day of the Dead beliefs and celebrations. When we were in Oaxaca last October/November for DotD, we saw a lot of Xolos depicted in the celebration artwork and sculptures, but I had never seen the actual dog, so thanks for sharing.
Janis, that is SO interesting to read that the Xolo dogs feature prominently in the Mexican Day of the Dead beliefs and celebrations. So curious to find out more. We are going to look it up and get educated. Thank you!
We have saw a somewhat similar hairless dog only once before and that was in Peru. We were excited to see two of these on one of our first days here and then two more … a total of five of them frequent the beach. They do have great personality.
Peta & Ben
So glad you posted as you’ve been in my thoughts and prayers (and I suspect many others).
Stay safe!
sending love,
judy
Thank you Judy, for such sweet concern. All well under the Oaxacan skies…
Hope you are doing well too and staying healthy
xoxo
Peta & Ben
Thanks so much for letting us know you are doing well! I was looking forward to a new post so that I would know you are alright. And then of course, I also enjoy seeing where you are living and learning so much about the local culture. Thanks for the great photos!
Thanks for your concern Ann, we are doing well. I read your latest post but just have not written a response yet. My computer is broken so we are down to one between two of us. So glad you enjoyed all the photos.
Peta
Great that this transition has been so smooth.
Thanks Peggy, we could not be happier with how things have worked out so far.
Peta
It’s great to know you are both safe and well and settling into your new lives in Mexico. Stay safe and well, and keep up the social isolation, especially considering others aren’t being careful.
Yes, we are doing our best to keep a distance.. It is quite challenging at times… I think once there start being actual cases of people with Corona, attitudes will no doubt change. We just read that there has been an increase of cases in Oaxaca, so no doubt things will change.
Stay safe and healthy
Peta
Following you on Instagram I feel like I have had glimpses of you settling in and exploring your new paradise. Now with both of your homes wrapped up on to this new chapter. Looking forward to future updates. Stay well friends.
Ah yes, Sue the rewards of instagram. Little sneak peaks before the blog post gets put together. Hoping this chapter in Mexico will be a rich one, but first we all need to put COVID19 behind us.
Peta
You’ve definitely been busy transitioning from one chapter to the next and you’ve definitely found a serene place in which to embrace this next chapter. And, to ride out the pandemic.
I think we’re on day 43 of staying at home. We are fortunate in that we can go out for exercise so long walks have helped to keep our sense of balance. We live in Maryland, and sadly, the virus seems to be peaking so we are extra diligent. We found a young woman who does all of our grocery shopping for us, which she delivers to our house. Because of our toddler grandchild, we just don’t risk coming in contact with anyone. It certainly is a different way of life.
Your beach is lovely and I envy your beach strolls.
Take care…
Patti it has been fortunately an easy transition and especially because we were so fortunate to have someone willing to help us close out the house in Viet Nam.
We having been in this house for a month and been practicing social distancing all of this time, as much as is possible. It is not so easy to do when others are not interested in doing it! Great that you have someone to do your shopping for you and delivering, that certainly makes things easier.
The beach swims and yoga provide the necessary input of nature and fresh air and exercise to our daily regimen.
Stay safe and healthy.
Peta
I forgot to ask, how far are you from health care, i.e. a hospital? And, do you have access to health care using traveler’s medical insurance, just curious, if you don’t mind my asking.
There is a very good hospital an hour away. We do not have health insurance and have not since we left the U.S. over ten years ago. One of the reasons we try to eat primarily plant based and to do yoga etc, is in order to stay as healthy as possible. Prevention is the name of the game. So far so good. Hoping to keep our record clean..
Peta
You two are amazing. Definitely tuned into something bigger than us as individuals.Thankful you were able to transition this well in our present circumstances. Always learn something and enjoy your posts. Looking forward to the next. Praying safety for you both. Eileen
Thank you Eileen for such a meaningful compliment. The circumstances of the pandemic certainly made us way more alert and conscious of all our decisions and choices along the way than we might have been. And then, we had good karma, as in the case of Agata helping us close out our home in Viet Nam.
Be safe and healthy. Thank you for reading us and sharing your thoughts with us.
Peta & Ben
It all looks amazing and you make it all sound quite easy. But you make your own luck – I think you have such an incredible attitude. Who’d have thought that when we met you in Hoi An just a few months ago, all this was going to happen? Since then you’ve given up 2 homes and made a third! Way to go! Stay safe.
What makes life interesting is the unpredictability of it all. Some aspects have flowed easily (finding a house, landing in this location) and other aspects have been more challenging (the logistics with airlines, travel hours etc). Much like sculpting with pottery, we try not to worry about details, but rather focus on the big shape, the contour of what will eventually form… And then once we have taken care of the broad outlines we can come back and fill in the details.
Ah yes, it already feels like a different life. How is your house sitting gig going in the Pyrenees, are you still there and able to stay for the duration of the pandemic?
Stay safe too.
Peta & Ben
Hi Peta and Ben. I do so enjoy living vicariously through your adventures! The morning and evening swims a particular delight I’m imagining for myself. Very glad you have found a place to call ‘home’ for the foreseeable, and one in which you can partake in conversations with the locals. A skill I do covet. Languages. And it would appear you and Ben have a few up your sleeves!!!
These are strange times, and I am grateful to be well and be in a country that is managing reasonably well with the virus. That being Australia. Complacency not our friend though! And great fortune with the tidying up of Hoi An. May your sandals appear swiftly. Thank you for sharing your days with us. Blessings to you both. And good health. Tracy (and Scott) xxxxx PS – Peta, your hair is looking fabulous. And you with it!!!
Tracy, so nice to read you. Good to hear that Australia is coping well overall with the pandemic. What a difficult time for Australia, first the fires and now Corona as well.
Ben has an affinity for language so it’s definitely easier for him to go from one to another. I will need to do some work to brush up on my Spanish but still, I am already enjoying the ease of communication. And of course even though I am only at an intermediate level with Spanish it is way more than I had with Vietnamese. At the time it never bothered me that I could not speak the language but now I realize of course how much more enjoyable it is to be able to go past the “pantomime” stage.
My hair has a life of it’s own these days… But I am enjoying the process of change and watching it grow like a carrot top 🙂 Thank you for the compliment. Ben says it looks just like the monkeys at the monkey forest in Ubud with their pointy hair dos. High compliment haha.
Peta
You two nomads are amazing! So glad you were able to close out the other 2 houses and that you have some things on the way to you, especially your paintings! Glad you were able to buy paper and paints where you are! I predict some dog paintings! Maybe Maria will have some additional art to offer in her store😉! Wonderful that you have so many fruits and veggies available! Your pizza looks sooo delicious!!
And unbelievable that you found Dominic right there where you are living! And you are right! What a great time for you to write a book! You certainly have the life experiences to do so! I’ll certainly want to read it when you put it out into the world! Wishing you two continued safety, health and wonderful new experiences!
Rosita, welcome to our Green Global Trek and thank you for leaving us your feedback. Interesting that you predict some dog paintings, as when we lived in Nicaragua, I did a series of about 45 large oil on canvas paintings and they were all of stray dogs!
We are still at the very beginning stages of our book, yet the broad strokes of the book are clear to us now it is just a matter of having the time to put into it.
Thanks for all the good wishes. Good health and stay safe to you as well.
Peta
Hi, Peta and Ben – I’m glad to read that you are well and settling in nicely. It is very impressive how quickly you have established a healthy and positive routine.
Stay safe and please continue to keep us posted.
Yes, things all fell into place rather easily and quickly and we have a fairly similar routine to what we had before in Viet Nam, just a lot more beach time and no yoga classes and of course a totally different culture and country, which is fun.
Thanks for your comments.
Peta
Glad you found a beautiful place to land during these challenging times. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of the Xola breed of dogs … fascinating. I’m sure you’re enjoying being in a better time-zone for staying connected with family and friends. 😊
Ingrid, the first time we ever saw a hairless dog, very similar to these on the beach, was in Peru and we assumed it was a Peruvian type of dog and did not realize that the Xolo is actually Aztec and therefore they are from the same 3,000 year old lineage. Another interesting fact is that people used these dogs as hot water bottles… because their skin holds so much warmth and apparently they seem to know just what hurts and where to position themselves for healing!
Peta
That’s one of the areas of Mexico that I/we are thinking about exploring for potential 3-6 month stays. From what I’ve read it’s really great there. How strong is the internet service that you have? Given our work, decent internet is a must.
Enjoy and stay safe!
Keith (and Shelley)
Hi Keith,
Nice to hear from you. We are loving it here so far. But I have bad news for you.. the internet sucks. In fact, we were about to start a consulting business but given how difficult it is to do zoom calls with a stable signal we have had to shelf that plan. Maybe the service is better in cities… however from what we hear it is generally not great in Mexico. Rather a disappointment for us after Viet Nam which was super fast and reliable.
Peta
Hi Peta,
Thanks for the info. Yeah, ugh on the internet. On the plus side, that may help keep it a paradise there just that much longer. 🙂
Cheers,
Keith
I’m glad you two are settling in to your new home. It looks like an idyllic little spot. Just reading about your daily routine relaxes me. I would love to have a warm, swimmable beach at my doorstep. I’m also rather envious of your sardinias breakfast! I’ve been interested in Qi Gong myself and finally found an instructor just as COVID-19 hit. I look forward to trying it.
Your experience of moving/selling/giving away all your stuff from your home in Hoi An while out of the country is remarkable. It’s wonderful to find good people and have access to technology that lets us do these things from afar. I imagine though that it still took lots of orchestration on your part. Love your story about continuing to feed the stray cats.
The lack of social distancing must be worrisome. We are so used to it here that it almost feels “normal”. Take care and keep well. By the way, the new do looks great.
Caroline we are still patting ourselves on the back for such a good find of such a good spot! The ocean is not always warm, there are some days that at first toe in it feels positively icy but if one goes in quickly it is actually very refreshing. Especially as it is so hot right now. But at all times, the waves are consistently strong.
It took a shit load of both our time and Agata’s time to process through everything. Fortunately she has great organizational skills and there is also a wonderful back story to how this all come to be. Years back when we lived in Nicaragua, I met a young woman in San Francisco while visiting my oldest son there. We were both sitting in a cafe and both had a braid on the side, red glasses and a croissant on our plates. We started talking and she told me how much she wanted to visit Nicaragua and that she was originally from Poland but lived in New York. I told her to come and visit us and long story short, a few months later, she actually did! She stayed with us for a month and volunteered to help with our bamboo business as she has great marketing skills. When I met Agata in Viet Nam for the first time, I noticed on her facebook page that we had a friend in common. From Poland, the friend was Maya, who had stayed with us. So I asked Agata if she knew Maya well.. and she replied that Maya was one of her dearest best friends back in Warsaw where they both live. And so… again a rather incredible case of the universe provides because Agata was eager to repay us the hospitality that we had shown to her best friend ten years before in Nicaragua!!! Howz that for a story!
The lack of social distancing is a bit worrisome and can be problematic but we do our best to create our own distancing wherever we go. Surprisingly casual here.
Thanks for the compliment on my crazy growing out funky hair these days 🙂
Peta
That is an incredible story about the connection between Maya and Agata! Thanks for sharing it.
The ocean may be a bit cold for you but I would love to be there with you right now!
Caroline, amazing how connections and serendipity work. Who knows how we would have managed to close out things in Viet Nam without Agata.. and Maya!
The ocean has been at perfect temperatures these days and we are so grateful for it… (at any temperature!)
xoxo
It sure looks like you two got settled in nicely. Of course, I like the dogs on the beach. And, the fact that – in typical Mexican fashion – swimming and sitting and strolling on the beach is still possible. 🙂 Plus, it’s quite nice that you can eat breakfast out. That has been a big no no for many weeks now in the US.
So, Peta, have you started writing that memoir? This is, indeed, a good time for that. Keep enjoying your lives in warm and colorful Mexico. Like you guys, not much has changed for us during this pandemic (being used to living together 24/7 and working from home), but not being able to move about will get old!
Liesbet, what do you think of the Xolo’s? They are such interesting looking creatures and are apparently highly intelligent and date back as far as the Aztecs. Although they almost ATE them to oblivion! Yikes I thought we got away from that with leaving Vietnam!
It really is great that two little places are still serving up breakfasts. So nice to have someone make us a meal while our feet are in the sand. At both places people congregate around a big table and then we go and sit somewhere by ourselves far away from everyone. Although, we would probably do that anyway not being the overly social types especially when it comes to food.
The memoir is off to a good start… very time consuming of course as you know very well. And add to that not great internet. Plus with two voices, it can sometimes take longer. We will see where that goes….
Stay safe and give Maya a pooch hug from us
Peta & Ben
I’ve never met a Xolo IRL! Not even when we were in Mexico. Maybe we will have to come check them out on your beach this winter? 🙂 Sounds like you’re off to a good start with the memoir. If you think it’s a lot of work now, “just” writing things down, you haven’t seen anything yet!
We first saw a Xolo dog in Peru. Today we saw another one on the beach, this one was gorgeous: Gray with a white tail and some white fur on its head. When the Spaniards came to Mexico they used the Xolo as a “hot water bottle”… for illness, because their soft furless skin would be good at retaining warmth and as well because they seemed to know when someone was sick and where the warmth was needed.
We’ve loved sighting old VWs in Mexico. I don’t know why, but they always make me smile. Glad to see you surrounded by color and still have a few sources of fresh fruit and veg. Love that picture of Maria behind the produce. Great composition. Interesting how you’ve come full circle. So much synchronicity. How about finding a Qi Gong master here! I had no idea that you were closing down Vietnam. I guess you were meant to be in Mexico. Glad to have you as a neighbor! We have to meet up when the doors open again.
Lisa, we kept seeing the old VWs in the mountain town we first stayed in and then later read that they are indeed a “thing” in Mexico. Thinking maybe we can find one at some point once we are able to do some exploration…
So much synchronicity indeed. If we had held on to the place in Viet Nam then we would have needed to stay in SE Asia for the duration of the pandemic and honestly Bali was a very strong contender. But even then it would have meant paying double rent and bottom line we were talking about making our way to Mexico as a potential home base due to my desire to be closer to the kids.
Once we can move freely what are your thoughts? Are you going to stay in Mexico or head back to Chicago? It will be very fun to meet up again, no matter where…
Peta
OMG! Get the VW. The perfect way to explore Mexico. I knew you were giving up Vietnam for the pandemic, but it didn’t dawn on me that you would make Mexico your home base permanently. Honestly, I think it is a phenomenal choice. So much to do here. We are in a holding pattern until the situation stabilizes. I would love to find a remote opportunity to replenish the cruising kitty.
Yes we are used to exploring by motorbike but I think for the types of distances we will want to cover a car makes more sense, and it HAS to be a VW I agree. We are unfamiliar with the word “permanently” when it comes to a home base.. haha, but man it would be really nice to have a stable place to keep the rebounder and the juicer type of thing.
Such a beautiful new home! And Agata sounds a complete treasure.
Yup Agata is worth her weight in gold. And there is a story attached to her… but you will need to scroll up to Caroline Heilbig comment as I wrote the story out there…. It’s worth it, it’s a good one!
Loving this house, it feels as though it was made for us!
Peta
Always a good day when a Peta and Ben post arrives! As my isolation starts to spin into a (temporary) lack of control over family happenings, your simple life looks very appealing. I love your daily routine, and I’m so glad you are finding good sources of food. The incredible luck of having Agata there in Hoi An to help you close out that house is amazing; I hope those yoga pants I mailed west across the Pacific enjoy their ride back east – haha! Hoping COVID-19 stays out of your little area and that you don’t need to test the locals’ ability to follow rules when it really starts to matter. Stay safe and healthy and give all those dogs a pat for me!
Lex right back at you.. always good to read your comments and feedback.
You will enjoy the back story behind Agata and the serendipity of that. I wrote about it in the comment in response to Caroline, above.
Haha, yes those yoga pants are in the box of “KEEP” and are on their way to Chicago as the shipping to Mexico was even more exorbitant than to the U.S. We sent just three boxes of clothes and meantime only have the clothes that we had left in Sri Lanka… as of course we travelled there with almost empty suitcases so as to bring back whatever we could in our cases. Little did we know, that we would have to manage with what was there. I had one pair of sandals but a dog ran off with one of them, so I only have a pair of flip flops that Ben bought at the market for $2, very low on underwear and Ben has very few shirts… Ah well, one doesn’t need much at the beach. Especially a nudist beach.
Stay healthy and safe too. I will give the doggies an extra pat from you…
Hope all is good with your family. I recall you had a wedding coming up for your daughter, I do hope that is still on track and has not been derailed by the pandemic…?
xoxo
P
Wedding indeed derailed. Mountain climbing event for me derailed. Baby and bridal showers derailed. But the grand baby could not be stopped by COVID! Yes!!! 🙂
Will go read Agata backstory!
I am sure the “covid generation” of new babies will have much to contribute to our global history. This new crop will grow up in a much different future than our oh so quaint past when social distancing was not even a coined term yet. They will design whatever the next stage of global civilization will be, hardened by entry into a turbulent world. No doubt, like every generation, they will forge their way… Welcome to a, well, pretty screwed up world, baby. Your move to make it right!
Ben
That Agata story is incredible! We seem to have many of those strange but serendipitous people overlaps in our life also. Maybe when we make it a point to look out for or just pay attention to others, more people come back to us in other forms. Who knows? Great story, though.
So good to catch up on how you’re doing, though I’m not remotely surprised to hear that you’ve landed on your feet. It sounds like the perfect haven for this time of isolation. And what an angel Agata was!
That pizza looks amazing!
Alison, very happy to have landed gently on our feet. We will probably continue to live here even after the pandemic, or so it seems. We are particularly enjoying the proximity to our families and being in the same time zone. Once the pandemic is over, we look forward to easy flights for visits instead of 27 hour ones with ten days long jet lag!
For the behind the scenes story on Agata check my comments to Caroline above 🙂
Delicious gluten free healthy pizza creation indeed. Happy to share the polenta skills recipe with you if you would like?
Peta
It looks like you have found the perfect place to ride this pandemic out in. I love how things have worked out so perfectly for you, Peta and Ben. And to have found a Qi Gong master on top of it, is pure serendipity. You are clearly exactly where you are meant to be. Wishing you the best for what is clearly the start of a new chapter for you.
So far, Jolandi, this is the perfect place yes!! Being able to be outside, enjoy the ocean AND be in the same time zone as our families during this hard time, has been perfect. We may well continue to live here as long as Ben can still do his work from here.
Really enjoying the Qi Gong lessons. I have studied it a bit using youtube but that is just not the same as having a real life teacher.
Yes we are exactly where we are meant to be. I am a great believe in the universe providing.
Thanks for the good wishes. Stay safe and healthy
Peta
Ben and Peta, I think you guys have found a little piece of paradise there, the perfect place to ride out the current lockdown measures. Sounds like you also have plenty to do to keep you entertained. I loved Peta’s idea of yoga classes with Qi Gong master and I am glad that Ben did enjoy it also. Your friend Agata really has done a fantastic job of wrapping up your home in Hoi An, what an amazing lady. Your cornmeal pizza sounds delicious, I am a big fan of polenta, so this recipe makes my mouth water. Your blog posts are always so upbeat and fun, you have brightened up my day 🙂
Glad to have brightened up your day Gilda. Thanks for your enthusiastic comments.
Corn meal is a staple here and so we decided to see how many different things we can come up with at home. We made cornmeal crepes with added cacao and that was pretty good… And one day a woman was selling tamales which is cornmeal wrapped in banana leaves and boiled. Pretty good stuff.
Stay safe and healthy.
Peta
I always read your posts open-mouthed. Your courage in trying new things: countries/houses/food/exercise/work is inspiration for everyone who reads your words. Glad to hear you’re working on a book about your adventures. The only problem with the book may be that it will be really BIG. 🙂 Stay safe in your new place of paradise. And please, stay well!
Haha Pam. Thank you for the lovely compliments. Even if the book never gets a publisher we might self publish just for the satisfaction of having done it. The theme of reinvention that weaves through our travels seems to provide a pretty good glue for the rest of the adventures. We have no experience with the publishing industry and have no idea how to even get in front of publishers or agents, so it will probably an uphill battle.
Stay well and safe you too!!
Peta & Ben
Have been wondering how things have been going. Really glad for the update and the pictures. Write that book! I recommended your site to a woman named Cheryl, ‘Born in a Car” hoping she catches up with you. It seems like you are settling in well. Many blessings, Michele
Thanks Michele for recommending our blog to a new potential reader. “Born in a car” is a pretty good blog title, making us curious to go and check her out…
Yup settling in v well, thanks so much.
Peta
It sounds like things have fallen into place for you and you are at a good place to be at this time. How wonderful to have dogs to play with. That pizza looks delicious. We having been making some great meals here too. Thankfully we are allowed to take our dog for walks so Paul and I take turns as only one can go at a time. Things are improving here in Spain, the strict lockdown is working. Thye will slowly relax the rules and plan to be back to regular life by the end of June. We are OK with that. Take care, both of you!
Darlene, let’s hope that regular life returns at the end of June for Spain! I fear our quarantine period will go much longer given that COVID-19 got here so much later. There are a few cases now in the nearest little city… Amazing that only one person is allowed to take a dog at a time!
Stay safe
Peta
It looks like you’ve found a good place to ride out potentially stressful times in a non-stressful way. I’m reminded of the Costa Rican phrase, “pura vida.” It sounds like you’ve found a good rhythm, albeit you had a good beat to start with. I’ll be curious to hear if the Qi Gong affects that at all.
Dave, so far so good. Although we are all waiting to see what happens in the next few weeks as it feels like the pandemic is finally making its way here. Everyone is still very casual and I guess until there are a few cases, they will not make any changes. We continue to social distance and our only outings are to buy produce or to go for our daily swims. A decent routine for sure!
Peta
Great to see you have settled into your new life and environment with such ease, although the spectre of Covid-19 lurks in the background. Still, I can imagine that at a time like this it must feel good to be closer to your family, and in the same time-zone. I certainly miss my kids, but ‘stuck’ in Vietnam where it is relatively safe at the moment, I am in no rush to return to the UK. I’ll have to wait and see what happens when my visa runs out, I may have no choice.
Lieve
It has been a blessing to be in the same time zone as our families. For that alone I am immensely grateful. I just saw on social media that the beach we lived near in Hoi An has just re opened and that things are starting to get back to normal there. So glad to hear that.
One of the benefits of Mexico is the six month visa we get as we have American passports. We still have to look into how to extend those if the pandemic is still around in five months time and our visas are about to expire. Plenty time to find out though…
Stay safe and thanks for reading us and leaving your comments.
Peta
Fabulous update! Your new life is colorful and exciting! I so enjoyed reading this post:-) Your photographic illustrations are spectacular and inspire me to want to visit your new area!
Thanks Lo! So pleased you enjoyed the photos and reading about life here in Zipolite. Look very forward to having you visit us here once the pandemic is over.
xoxo
Pete
Hi Peta and Ben, It is fascinating for me to read how other parts of our planet are living right now. Fresh produce is a huge treat for us, too. Keeping our immune system healthy is a priority for many people, especially now. I realize not everyone has access to healthy food and even clean water.
Swimming a couple times a day sounds wonderful. Fresh sardines sound like a great option.
I always appreciate you sharing the photos. The dog photos made me smile. You are both inspirational on how you are flexible, adapt and move forward. Stay safe and take care.
Erica, so very true. We feel so fortunate to be in a place surrounded by nature and so far with a reliable produce source. So many around the world are facing so many very real challenges exacerbated by the pandemic.
The fresh sardines were a nice treat especially because at home we are 100% plant based.
Glad you enjoyed the photos. We are very much enjoying the dog “feature” of our beach. Thanks for the compliments… Our lifestyle requires flexibility and adaptation that is for sure!
Stay safe and healthy.
Peta
What a change of lives for the two of you. Do you ever get discouraged with all the upheaval you’ve had in recent years? It seems like you have almost everything you need though. And Zipolite looks beautiful and tranquil and I’m jealous that Ben gets to pet those dogs..
Does this mean we get frequent photos of naked people? 🙂
Frank, no we do not discouraged with all the upheavel as we assume that everything is ephemeral and has the potential to change on a dime.
Ben is in dog heaven here. So many great dogs every day on the beach and so very interactive.
Do you WANT frequent photos of naked people? If so we are happy to oblige. And on that note, our qi gong teacher taught the last class we had on the beach, naked. Unusual, but fine by us…. 🙂
Peta
It’s so interesting to follow your journey Peta and Ben and you are sounding very settled in your new life there. So much going on in your lives and social distancing doesn’t seem to be a thing as you’ve pointed out. We are going into winter now with a frost this morning, so to see your beach shots and hear about the warm weather makes me a tad envious! Good luck with writing your book 🙂
Thanks Debbie, yes we are in a pretty steady routine. Wake up, go to beach, do yoga, swim, breakfast, work, back to beach, watch the sunset… It’s a routine we are immensely grateful for especially at these times. Hard to think about going into winter with frost and all when the temps here are in the low 90s…
Re the book.. we shall see how it evolves….
Peta
Did you find paradise or did it find you? It does remind me somewhat of Nicaragua. Stay safe!!
Boyd nice to hear from you! I think WE found IT 🙂
Yes, it feels very full circle from our days and lives in Nicaragua. Enjoying being back in Latin America and speaking Spanish again.
Hope you and your family are all well.
xo
P
What a beautiful place to shelter in place with the beach steps away! I envy your adventuresome spirit. Mexico is a beautiful place. Stay sage!
Thanks Jo Nell and welcome to our Green Global Trek. We choose to collect adventures rather than possessions. A very conscious choice we made over a decade ago.
We look forward to discovering Mexico once the pandemic is behind us all.
Peta
Happy to see the xolo guarding your lives in Oaxaca.
Love that! One can also do with some extra guardian angels.
Peta
Wow – what an absolutely fascinating insight into life under Covid. You’ve certainly got a beautiful spot to be isolated in. Really interesting hearing about how local life is adapting to the new situation.
Stay safe both 🙂
Hi Matt and Lucy,
Welcome to our Green Global Trek! If you ever want to buy “two tickets to” Asia, hope our archives our years in Asia provide you with some food for thought.
It IS very interesting to read about all the different response both by different countries to the pandemic, and as well how locals everywhere adjust. Do they disregard the rules or are they as a community inclined to be very respectful of the rules. We were living in Viet Nam just a short while ago and people there are very mindful of what the Gov requests… kind of the opposite extreme of here!
Peta
What a whirlwind your life has been the past few months!! It’s truly remarkable how you’ve managed to re-land in a new home, in a different country, under a global pandemic, and still close out TWO homes on the other side of the world!
… and land gracefully. Your new routine looks idyllic. I suspect both of you need some time to recharge for a while.
btw, Peta, I just love your haircut! While you are very photogenic to begin with, the picture of you at your computer is beautiful. You are just beaming sunshine 💕
Joanne, when you phrase it like that, we are pretty impressed with ourselves!!! And Ben adds “While launching a massive scale reforestation of bamboo project in the Philippines.”
We are doing a great job of recharging although it would be nice if Ben had less work, as he is swamped! But other than that, the morning and sunset routine of the beach, has been blissful.
Thanks Joanne for such a lovely compliment. My hair has a life of its own these days that’s for sure!
Peta
I enjoyed reading this post. It is refreshing to see photos and read about a lifestyle that is so different from mine. I can tell that you’ve settled into a wonderful place and am not jealous that you can do yoga on the beach. The Mexican hairless dog is an interesting dog. I like his looks, having been a fan of Dr. Suess.
Glad you enjoyed this post Ally. The interesting thing about the xolo dog is how integral he is in the cultural history of Mexico although at one point it was almost eaten to extinction by the Aztecs. Thankfully, the breed survived. They are also known to be particularly smart. After we wrote this post we saw a “new” one on the beach… this time with a black body and white fur on its tail and head. So wonderful looking.
Peta
So glad you’ve arrived safely in your new home and have made comfortable and socially responsible adjustments. Seems quixotic that you left Sri Lanka because of the political unrest (unless I misinterpreted) and then fled Asia for health reasons in light of the Corona virus to find a safer home in Mexico. Did you ever suspect a pandemic would force you to travel around the world? For all the stories I’ve read about a world reborn under extreme circumstances, this isn’t the one I anticipated. I know you will make the best of your situation and will contribute to your new community. Be well, be safe, stay healthy, both of you.
Thanks Sharon.
We left Sri Lanka because after the ISIS attacks, Ben’s work with the government stopped to a standstill as they obviously had other things to worry about. His Chicago based primary client wanted him to relocate elsewhere and at that time we chose Viet Nam as our new home base (a year ago). No, we did not flee Viet Nam for health reasons, in fact, we were impressed with how they were dealing with Corona.. but we could not get back there due to the border closings there while we were on a short trip to our previous home in Sri Lanka to close that out. So we had to make some life changing decisions….We chose Mexico as it had been on our radar for a while as a potential future home base, and COVID essentially accelerated that decision. The low cost of living and proximity to family in the U.S. and the fact that we both speak Spanish made it a good choice for us.
Very happy with our choice, loving being in Mexico so far and look forward to exploring it once the pandemic lifts.
Peta
Ben and You and the posts are so fun to read! As a traveler I also was in Zipolite in 1993 staying in a hut on the beach with my black lab and husband! I understand the beauty and energy of the place and hope when the virus constrictions lift you can take in everyday life as a Zipolitian ! You both were so gracious to my son and I in Hoi An and made our time there special. Tommy read the Zipolite posts and just smiled.. particularly at the photos of Ben living the life. You are living out many of our dreams and so great to watch two resourceful people take this on. Hopefully we will meet up again on the road. We love and miss you guys.
Barrie, so nice to read your feedback on our blog. Amazing that you were here 27 years ago and staying in one of the little huts on the beach. One can still do that today, which is pretty unusual for a coastal place to not be overly built up. Even now during the pandemic, the energy and the vibe is very positive and resonates with us. We have enjoyed meeting others in the community, either that live here, or that are here for the duration of the quarantine. It was really lovely to share Hoi An with you and Tommy and we do hope you come to visit here as well. That would be very fun. The Oaxacan mole should not doubt have appeal to the chef in Tommy. Looking forward to it…
Xoxo
P
It’s taken me several weeks to get back to this post, but I didn’t want to let it slip by. I lost my dad May 1st and am grieving him. But I knew that reading your post would soothe me, and it has. Seeing your beautiful, artistic photos of your new life makes me so very happy for you. Your fortitude, resilience, and flexibility are always inspiring. And I enjoy seeing how many interests we share! I’ve returned to a daily morning Qi Gong practice (Five-Element) that feels nourishing and healing. And I was just telling Eric that I wanted to try making a pizza with the organic corn masa that I’ve been using for homemade tortillas. Thank you for another beautiful post. Stay well and joyful. OX
Laurel, so hearbreaking to read that your dad passed on. My father died in mid November and I think about and miss him all the time. I thought I would write about him, but I have not been able to. He and I were very close and it is really hard to imagine a world without his physical presence. My sincere condolences to you on your loss…. and I am happy that our post had some value at a difficult time for you. Thank you for the lovely compliments.
So interesting re our shared interests and SUCH specific ones as well… Qi gong and the corn pizza. Amazing..
So much love your way Laurel
xoxo
Peta
Oh, Peta. I am so deeply sorry to hear that you lost your father. I understand how painful it is to write about the loss of someone that we held so dear. Words just seem inadequate. I was very close to my dad, too, and I’m still trying to accept that I will never again see him or hear his voice.
I wish I could sit with you and we could share memories of our wonderful fathers. Love and hugs to you, my friend.
Thanks so much Laurel I do appreciate this heartfelt thoughtful message from you.
xoxo
Glad to know that both of you have settled quite smoothly in your new home. However, since this post was from more than 1 month ago, I wonder how you two are doing now. I hope things remain calm and peaceful in Zipolite, and the new coronavirus stays away from this village.
Thanks Bama, we are doing really well here. We are in process of writing a new blog post on life in Zipolite. So far, the Corona free bubble continues and we have not one case. Just had a major earthquake with the epicentre just an hour away, but thankfully no damage and everyone is fine. And so far no tidal waves…
Thanks for stopping by to read us and hope you catch the update (coming soon).
Peta
Peta and Ben, I’m doing my usual thing of reading blogs weeks after the fact. But even though I haven’t commented for awhile, I’ve been thinking of the two of you as I watch the COVID statistics in Mexico ramping up. We have been very fortunate here in British Columbia, especially on Vancouver Island, as our Provincial Health Officer and and provincial government have been proactive in implementing an effective approach to dealing with the corona virus. By the way, I echo Deb’s invitation. You are very welcome to stay with us if you make it up this way once it’s safe to travel again, of course.
Jude
Hi Jude, thank you for such a lovely invitation! I do hope we get there one day as we have heard and read such good things about your beautiful area.
We are in process of an update blog post… Very fortunate here too as so far not even one case. We call it our Corona Bubble. Stay safe and healthy.
Peta
Hi. Peta and Ben
I was in Zipolite 2 years ago and it was pure magic.. have you found the medicine man yet? He has a little house on the hill (you can ask around)… does some wicked healings.
I love the energy and vibe… and just the calmness of the place. I am stuck in cold Ottawa and am seriously considering coming down for 10 days. I am a bit worried about COVID though and everything seems to be booked up for the Xmas holidays. Any information on safety measures and rates in the area would be useful. If I do come,, I just became a yoga teacher and could offer free classes on the beach! I have worked in international aid all my life and appreciate the work you are doing….keep it up. You have chosen a magical place in Mexico and hope you get to Oaxaca city as well…
Looking forward to hearing from you.
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