One of the highlights of living in the house we are renting is the close proximity to Ba Le market.
Ba Le market is a small yet dense and bustling, (non tourist) market just minutes away.
Every morning, starting before 6 a.m., the little streets in and around the market are buzzing with locals on their motorbikes and on foot, buying fresh produce from vendors, often without getting off their bikes. This is how most Vietnamese start and end their day, every day.
Vendors line the streets with everything from fruit, flowers, coconut and sugar cane juice to clothing, underwear, household utensils and handmade knives. Stalls of butchers, fishmongers and fruit sellers line tiny crowded aisles under canvas cover which hang low overhead.
Small street food stalls on the side of the street offer bowls of steaming broth, overflowing plates of herbs, greens and freshly made rice noodles, pork baguette sandwiches (the famed Banh mi) and strong coffee. Workers with no time to make food at home eat breakfast here at the market. Usually, they return faithfully to the same vendor each day. Loyalty is highly valued. Bantering and bartering is a constant.
The market is the centre of life and the heart of the community in Viet Nam. If you arrive after nine a.m., things are winding down already. By noon, shops are closed and vendors have left. At four in the afternoon it all starts up again and is winds down as the sun sets.
There is now a new building behind the vendors on the main street of the market, almost at the end of construction and clearly the market is at some point in the not too distant future, going to be moved indoors. We have seen this happen in many countries. The move is usually driven by local leaders, or a community group, orchestrating a modernization campaign. Sometimes these moves are dismal failures and buildings remain empty, with vendors moving on and setting up shop elsewhere.
Such modernization drives can potentially destroy the spirit of an authentic market. The daily socializing between neighbouring vendors that is part of market life will be altered. Loyal clients will need to find the new locations of their favored vendors. Some will start shopping elsewhere. The motorbike drive-by shopping will cease. It’s always a tradeoff, but hopefully there will be the positive of having a robust roof overhead during times of high rain, during monsoon seasons where the area typically experiences flooding.
Our bet is that an organic overflowing of the indoor market will recreate itself all along the walls of the cement structure, and will retain a street traffic clientele.
In anticipation of changes coming sometime early 2020, we have photographed some of the characters and scenes of the Ba Le market as it is today. .
(Typically $1 a pound.)
With our bellies full and motorbike weighted down with bags of fruits and other goodies, we head home. From the bustling market to the serene rural life in two minutes.
In our neighbourhood, the garbage pick up is done manually, by a woman pushing a metal cart.
Beautiful captures of your neighborhood and the market! I felt as if I was strolling along with you, under the low-hanging tarps and cloths, tasting the street food, stopping the motorbike, and bartering for fruit. And then, to return to the peaceful rice paddies on the way home. Are you two managing to live a pretty stress-free life these months? Even when having your jobs?
Thanks Liesbet, you really got the gist of our market… It is amazing to be so near to such a charming and bustling market, yet live in a neighborhood which is all farmers and pretty tranquil other than the roosters crowing and cows mooing.
Juggling multiple parallel jobs is a tad stressful for Ben, but nothing that can’t be managed with a quick trip to the beach or the market for a Vietnamese treat. And my job, although intense is very interesting and I am enjoying it a lot. So overall, pretty stress free.
Peta
What a wonderful market and close to your home. I love the drive by service too. It sounds like you are fitting right in.
Darlene, there probably has never been a better fit! The culture, the overall personality of the Vietnamese people is a perfect match for both of us. Now if only we could speak Vietnamese ~ yet it is a particularly challenging language encompassing five tonal values.
The drive by service is so convenient and so much fun to watch too!
Peta
Thanks for the tour. It will be interesting to see how the market changes.
At first we were quite upset to see the concrete structure, fearing for the loss of the character and soul of “our market”. However, after talking with people that have enough English to understand our question, it does seem that the roof will provide good coverage and therefore benefit, in the monsoon season.
Peta
I absolutely adore authentic Asian outdoor markets. Like you, I have seen many of them moved indoors over time, with varying rates of success…but always with a loss of their original charm. Wishing your outdoor market resilence and longevity!
Yes sadly, charm gets lots but hopefully in this case, the vendors will benefit from the cover during the heavy rains which are inevitable. It does seem rather improbable that the chaotic market life would neatly rearrange itself per the town planners. So there may be an interesting transition phase. But the Vietnamese do have “resilience and longevity” and are good at adapting to change.
Peta
What a wonderful experience – you’re not just buying what you need, but you’re turning the mundane act of shopping into an opportunity to take part in your community. Everything is so different – the goods, the processes, the expectations, the prices, but at the end of the day, a smile is a smile. I love it, and I think it’s so cool that you are immersing yourselves in all parts of this beautiful country. Since I am a bit new to your blog forgive me for the dumb question, but how much Vietnamese do you speak? As I understand it from other international travel bloggers I’ve followed, it’s a pretty tough language to learn. What has your experience been with communication?
These are great questions you ask. We have lived in Vietnam a few times before, but never for an extended period. Because Vietnamese is such a challenging language, with five tonal levels, it is extremely difficult to learn. However, I am sure if Ben has time to take classes, he will eventually get there as he has a good ear and is good with languages. (He speaks decent Japanese and yet will readily admit that Vietnamese is an order of magnitude more complicated).
But here is the thing, we both find communication in Viet Nam to be an interesting game. Because people are very straightforward and not shy for the most part, and have a sense of humor we manage quite well with non verbal language, which after all is 80% of all communication.
B&P
I love the line ‘loyalty is highly prized’. If only it were like that in the west. I also like the fact that you don’t have to even get off your motorbike to do your shopping. Hope the market keeps it’s spirit when it moves indoors.
Yes, loyalty is key. In fact, there are some vendors that we have returned to for the past six years and they still remember us and are excited to see us come back. The most interesting thing is that there is a cultural difference with regard to pricing of street food. If you come back to a vendor, the price will usually drop. It starts higher than for loyal customers and you can gradually inch your way down. Our favorite breakfast (mi quang noodles) can vary from 50.000 dongs ($2) all the way down to 15.000 (which is 60 cents).
B&P
What fun! Did you buy a knife?
Well of course! A few…
I sent the first photo to Adam, and he said, yes thanks I would love two of the large ones. So we that’s when we headed back to find the knife guy again. And now we are travelling with machete like knives in our suitcases!
Peta
Really enjoyed seeing the photos of the neighborhood and market I have just visited with you…. What a wonderful experience that was!
It was so much fun to share our neighborhood with you. Still have great memories of you eating your first bowl of rice noodles in the market!
xoxo
P
Thank you for sharing a “day in your life”! Markets like this are the heart of the community. We are currently in Mexico and are enjoying the outdoor markets, the food, and the people who bring it all to life every day.
Janis whenever we go to a new country we head straight to a market, as is the best way to get a first read on the culture. How interactive people are, animated vs shy, what kind of food they like etc.
Mexico is definitely on our radar for exploration as we have only experienced very little of it.
Peta
Interesting market – and your favourite little neighbour is very cute!
Thanks Anabel. Being able to interface with a toddler is a nice way to meet the whole family. We were just invited for Cherry’s first birthday cake, but unfortunately we will be away visiting our families.
Peta
I love markets like this. I can spend hours there just people watching. These local markets always feel so authentic, as if they have a heart and soul. I hope that’s not lost with the move to the new building.
You neighbourhood looks lovely. Great post.
Alison
Thanks Alison. We never tire of people watching in the market. Of course not all cultures are “food centric” but Viet Nam, much like China and France, puts a high premium on quality food and on the tremendous variety of dishes.
We were upset to see a building at the market, and there is indeed a high risk of the heart and soul of this market being impacted. It’s a wait and see situation…
Love our neighborhood. Such a great location.
It’s sad to think of those markets moving inside. I love the sense of community they provide, and wish we had something like it in our town. Our “farmer’s markets” aren’t the same thing at all, at least not around here. Thanks for this great post, Peta!
Well it’s interesting.. As we write this, Hoi An is experiencing extreme flooding. Many people have started to move furniture and belongs from first floor to higher ground in anticipation of rising waters in the streets. The reality of extreme weather every year, and increasingly high levels of flooding, trigger a number of infrastructural adjusments, like the market. It is easy now to appreciate the merits of a future market building that allows for shopping even during hard rains.
Ben
Certainly a lot more character than our local grocery/department store.
Oh yes, that’s for sure. Each shopping expedition is a fun and different adventure.
Oh, I love street markets and try to visit one wherever I go in the world. I also love to visit the farmers’ markets in various communities in Canada – where I live now has a very old year-round farmers’ market that has been written up as being in the top 10 Farmers Markets in North America! It’s small but very much thriving. I am sure I will find some favourite ones when I move to Vancouver Island next year, too.
Thank you for sharing! I hope the move to the building goes well.
Deb
Top 10 farmers markets in North America. That’s a pretty good market! What is the namer of your particular market? Good data point to have just in case… We visit for the “scene”, for the fresh organic produce, but also to support local farmer communities, a critical group in our society that deserves support.
Vancouver island market – looking forward to reading your post on market options on Vancouver Island
Ben
Hi Ben,
It is known as either the Galt Farmers Market or the Cambridge Farmers Market. I wish I could find the link to the article, but it came out several years ago. It’s so small – nothing like the huge (and touristy) St. Jacob’s Farmer Market 30 minutes away, but for me that is part of its charm.
Deb
Peta, your photo journal is captivating, as always. You manage to reflect not only the character of a place, but the culture, the people, the flavors and the life that lies beyond. “Progress” makes life better for some and challenging for others.Hoping that it isn’t too much change. I love that you were delivered to the knife man. Actions transcend language barriers.
Thank you Suzanne for the lovely compliments. Glad that the culture is coming through, as then my street photography has been successful. There is so much movement, that I usually park myself somewhere for a while so that I can try to blend in a bit, and also to see which characters I want to engage with.
My son, an urban farmer, loves the knives! Just hand delivered them to him in Chicago. They went into my suitcase in the hold and made it through. What a long way they travelled.
Peta
I would gladly start my day, every day, like this. Loved the story of the lady showing you where the knife-seller was. The spirit of the market, right there. Thanks for the motorbike tour!
That’s the spirit! So glad you enjoyed…
Her determination in taking me personally to the knife man, when she realised that no one would have sufficient English to be able to direct me there, was touching. She was about half my size and zipping through like no one’s business.
Peta
It can’t be possible to go hungry there, can it, Peta? 🙂 🙂
You hit the nail on the head. I have put on TEN pounds in four months!!! YIKES. I don’t usually eat rice at all, but here, with SO many rice products and the noodles being so delicious, and the food overall.. well, what’s a girl to do?
Peta
What a pity that “progress” will change the whole atmosphere (and future) of this fabulous Market. Love the Ducks, Cows and gorgeous little Cherry 😊
It’s such a great contrast between the tranquility of our little neighborhood amongst the farmers and the hustle and bustle of the market.
Peta
A visit to your neighbourhood is always full of cultural adjustment. I just can’t get used to the motorbikes packed with the entire family!
I do love the energy of open air markets. It just not the same vibe when it’s moved indoors. I hope all the vendors and their customers make an easy transition.
I loved the story about the knife guy. I’m sure you and Ben are local celebrities by now 🙂
Every day we see some sight on a motorbike which makes us either smile, or gasp in amazement at the huge loads, the tiny children standing up on the seat or in front of the driver, and the casualness of some of the women at the back as though they were on a couch at home. But then again, they have all been doing this since they were babies too, so it’s second nature.
Our goal is to be the opposite of celebrities 🙂 but rather to be a slightly different “local”. (Vendors can get rather proud if a foreigner frequents their stall.) We are now regulars at a few places and as a result, no one blinks an eye when they see us, and our prices keep dropping down! haha And there are vendors who remember us from SIX years ago and hug us each time we come back.
Peta & Ben
You paint a very vivid picture of the market. Interesting how loyalty is valued and people return faithfully to the same vendor. I could immediately see how moving the market indoors would significantly change how and whether people will shop here, especially with the use of their bikes. Also,”efficient and easy.” The hodge podge photo made me smile.
I can see how the Market is more than shopping. It is an experience. A fascinating post, as always. Very interesting pictures. Thank you for sharing, Peta and Ben:)
Thanks Erica. We are definitely worried about being able to find our vendors once they move indoors, but then again, there has been significant rain and flooding lately and for sure a covered market will give many peace of mind during monsoon season and will be more practical.
In the photo with the hodge podge of items, most interesting to us was his small collection of bras which he proudly held up. Move over Victoria Secret 🙂
Peta & Ben
This post reminds me very much of the Mercado do Bolhao in Porto. The market was an entire city square block in the heart of the city, just off from the heavily laden tourist areas. It was frequented by locals and tourists alike. It was old and crumbling and smelly and all kinds of wonderful. Like your market heading for modernism, the Bolhao market has been closed for two years and is currently undergoing a complete renovation and will be reborn with a modern, clean, look. It may be a good thing in the end, but we will always miss the old market.
Tumeric flavored rice noodles sounds yummy. I am gluten free so always on the hunt for noodles that I can eat – and enjoy.
Wondering if language is a barrier for you. Do you speak enough of the local language or is English spoken widely?
Patti, we definitely want to return to Portugal and visit Porto. If the market has been closed for two years, then what has happened to all the vendors? Sadly, it seems this is the way of the world for markets, which all seem to eventually get “modernized”.
Turmeric rice noodles are VERY yummy. All hand cut and therefore uneven in size. SO many rice products to be had.
Interestingly, in most cases language is NOT a barrier as much as a limitation. It is also an accelerator in a way, as we have to gesticulate with each other and there is always a lot of laughter and touching and general interaction which happens. Vietnamese is a particularly tough language, with five different tones, but that said, of course it would be wonderful to be able to communicate somewhat with language too.
Peta & Ben
A select group of vendors (not sure what the process involved) is currently housed in the expansive basement space of a nearby modern four shopping mall. Our favorite olive lady is there as well. It’s interesting to see the progress each time we visit Porto. Our local friend has told us the former/current vendors will have an option to return but the market will never be the same, I fear, as the plans will take it to a different atmosphere. But, maybe it will be even better. Maybe not. 🙂
I can’t imagine trying to speak Vietnamese, I don’t think our American tongues could make the same sounds. 😉 Portuguese is also not easy, so so many verb tenses. If we continue with our residency, which we plan to do, in another 3 years we will have to demonstrate basic proficiency in the language in order to renew at the next level. That may prove to be the end of us. Ha! Ha!
We love farmers’ markets and search them out everywhere we go! So much more fun to shop from local producers, and so much more delicious to have locally grown and freshly harvested food.
Having a daily market just a couple of miles from your home is fabulous. I’m glad you captured it as it is now, before the market moves into an indoor space. With all of the tasty looking food you enjoy at the outdoor markets everywhere you go, do you ever have problems with gastrointestinal upsets? Or are your bodies just extremely well adapted to microbes from all over the world? 🙂
Laurel, after traveling in numerous countries in Asia, we have had I think but ONE time when we had a negative reaction. In retrospect, we made a classic mistake of eating at a place which was not busy. Which is our own golden rule to follow… Look for the lines of locals as almost always this means that the food is good and does not stand for long periods of time.
In Viet Nam, there is a different issue. MSG! Some people have no reaction to having MSG added to their foods, and others, like me, suffer a lot. I get terrible headaches if I eat MSG, which is basically to me, a poison. I have a card written in Vietnamese which says NO MSG but even so many vendors have already made their broth and already used the stuff. As a result, I have to be really really careful where we eat. There are many small restaurants which promote themselves as MSG free, but with street vendors it is much trickier. Basically MSG is used as liberally here, as salt is used in the West.
Peta
THANK YOU for bringing me into your neighborhood. I have fallen in love with the people thanks to your photos. Loving sweet expressions. And how much fun is the Bartering and Bantering time? I can almost hear it. I agree with you, the idea of bringing the banter/barter inside takes away from the outside fun feel of shopping although I do wonder how much ‘fun’ it is in the pouring rain. Your motorcycle ride back home, even with the cows in the way (or maybe BECAUSE of the cow stoppage) is delightful.
Pam, yes, Vietnamese people are typically very expressive. Not always sweet mind you. They can be quite forceful and brutally direct. These are qualities that do not appeal to all. However, I have no problem with their directness and in fact appreciate it. One can regularly witness loud altercations in the market, but smiles as well!
Oh yes, we love our interactions with cows and water buffalo and ducks and chickens in our neighborhood.
Peta
I envy you having this wonderful market so close to your new home. I got a chuckle out of hearing that you don’t even have to get off your motor bike to make a purchase. And, I love the knife vendor story. Sounds like you guys are settling in.
Oh yes, there was no “transiton period”.. just a continuing of where we left off last time we were here. It is very fun and also useful to have a market so close by, as if we need anything, we can get it quickly and easily in minutes and it’s always bound to deliver some fabulous visuals or interesting interactions.
Peta
Oh man how I miss market life and delicious veggie street food! Best thing about Asia. That and the abundance of tropical food. Lots of love to you both x
Kris, we will just have to keep eating more tropical fruits on your behalf and hope you guys get to come and visit while Hoi An is still our home base xoxo
Peta I am drawn to such markets like a magnet when we travel. So full of energy. It always makes me wish i spoke the language. I read in the comments where you mentioned that Vietnamese is very difficult to learn. I can only imagine. I was also glad to hear that the concrete structure has a positive in bringing shelter from the monsoon season. Hopefully the comfort and safety will outweigh any loss of authenticity.
Sending best wishes as you have your time with your family. Hoping all is well for each of them.
Sue us too. Markets are always where we head first. Not only for the pulse of the place, but also to try local fruits and street foods. Vietnamese language has five tones. So even if you get the word right, if you have the wrong tone, you will most likely not be understood at all!
Thanks so much for the good wishes.
Peta
Thanks for whisking me away to Viet Nam, Peta, and sharing this fascinating world with us. Your writing is mesmerizing, descriptions are delightful, and photos are a true joy. I so love visiting markets in other parts of the world, and you do such a great job of sharing the whole picture. Thank you.
Thank you for all the lovely compliments and so glad you enjoyed this post so much. Markets are the first place we go to no matter where we are.. both for the fresh produce and as well for the cultural heart and center of a place.
Peta
Modernization and “progress” is usually a mixed bag. Maybe the new facility will be better in ways, but as you say, so many things will be lost. You did a nice job documenting the market as it is.
I bet it is nice living to the market. You can get some seriously fresh produce there. The vegetables even in Bangkok are so fresh and delicous, making for great salads and stir frys.
Thanks Jeff… we were inspired to document the market so as to have a record of how it looked and felt to us, before the move to the new building. What we do know, is that Hoi An has serious flooding every monsoon season, so if this helps provide continuity and disaster resilience, then that ultimately is worth it.
Nothing like produce fresh from the market. And in Viet Nam, freshness is highly prized, above all else.
Peta
I agree with your commentators, I hope the market does not lose its charm with all the coming changes. Visiting open markets is just something we will never tire of doing in our travels. I love your market and people shots. I can see the market is busy and bustling but the moments you captured are so still, I just love that. I wish I could speak or pick up languages more quickly but like you mentioned,especially in Asia,I often find people are not shy and will go out of there way to understand and to be understood. Lovely post!
Reply
Yup markets are the FIRST place we head to, no matter where we are. Thanks for the compliment re the photography. Amidst all the hustle and bustle, there is always stillness to be found. I like to find a spot to stand in and just observe and wait before I start taking any photos, makes it a bit easier to blend in and get good shots.
Vietnamese is definitely not a language that can be picked up quickly as it has five different tonal values, and is a challenging one that can take years.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks
This is a down-to-earth photography through the daily life of Vietnam, Peta and Ben. These snaps around the Ba Le market captured what day to day life is like there: busy, hard work and peace. It looks like there is so much to choose from from food to the pants. Surely the pants fit, Peta. It did look like a fun time trying them on 😀
Lol I can imagine the little lady dragging you to the man selling the knives to be quite a sight. Hope you got a knife 🙂 So nice you live nearby the market, close to fresh food and things you need around the house. Hope you well 🙂
I do love street photography which captures the spirit of the local people. Yup the pants did fit and we all, myself and Ben and the vendors had a good laugh at my trying them on, there and then.
We bought three knives! and took them back in our suitcase (in the hold of course) for 2 of my gardening sons. We love living so close to a market, especially a Vietnamese market. Aside from the great fruits and food, it always provides interest and authenticity.
Thanks for stopping by to read us and comment Mabel.
Peta
Such beautiful photo documentation of the people and landscapes of your new community! I love the virtual glimpses of cultures and places I have not had the opportunity to experience. People must feel very comfortable in your presence to be so willing to be photographed. I find it is hard to take good photos of people, yet you do it so well.
Jude
Jude that’s a great compliment. Thank you. When it comes to taking photos of people, I try to hold off taking photos until I have taken the time to either blend into the environment, or to engage with people so that the photos are more meaningful as well. Of course it depends on the culture, as some welcome photos being taken and others prefer not. I often also show my portrait photos to the “subjects” so that they can enjoy seeing a photo of themselves through my lens and it then becomes more of an interactive process than my just snapping a photo and moving on.
Peta
I love seeing this intimate view of Vietnam, the people content in pursuing their daily activities, the children being kids. I remember all the years I protested that ugly war, the images of Buddhists priests self immolating, Asian and American soldiers so young they wouldn’t have been out of place bicycling around town in search of fun, and one of those young Americans my husband, years before I met him. Wars end, erasing the memory takes a long time, and I’m filled with hope at seeing images of Vietnam prosperous. So I’ll concentrate on the baskets and pots of food, at the good strung from rafters, at the people congregating in their colorful garb, and wish for continued peace here, hoping for more peace elsewhere, all the elsewheres around the globe. You two in your treks and visits bring that promise home, so thank you.
Sharon, thank you for this thoughtful and heartfelt personal comment.
It is interesting, living in Viet Nam, how many Viet Nam vets have been able to make peace with their horrendous war error experiences by visiting Viet Nam and engaging directly with selected groups of people around social impact initiatives. Of course, the most famous perhaps are Senator McCain and Sen Kerry, who both had storied military records and who both have been advocates of a rebooting of the U.S. Vietnamese relationship for a mutually valuable and beneficial future. In fact, we often read articles about U.S. expats, retirees who are looking at taking steps to retiring in Viet Nam because of the combination of low cost, great food and tropical weather.
The remnants of the American war, as it is called in Viet Nam, needs to be understood through the prism of demographics. Viet Nam’s average age is far younger than the U.S. average age. It is therefore a historical data point, but less and less so one that the great majority of people here relate to on a personal level any more than this population would relate to the prior French war or even before that, the Japanese invasion. The two concrete remnants of the U.S. war are firstly, the multigenerational fall out from Agent Orange (in the form of a disproportionate number of physically handicapped people at birth) and secondly, some remaining unexploded ordinance/mines, especially in the hinterland. (Not as much of a problem as in Laos and Cambodia which are both plagued by enormous stocks of unexploded ordinance.)
Fortunately, the Vietnamese people have an amazing ability to look forward as opposed to looking back, much like the way they drive their motorcycles ~ worrying only about what’s ahead (never looking back). From a Vietnamese point of view they harbour no ill feeling to American citizens, which is amazing. And furthermore, they can see, like we all can, that the government policy tragic decisions that led to countless dead and wounded here, is being repeated today in different theaters ~ Afghanistan, Iraq, Syria. It is the unfortunate reality that the U.S.’s position in geo politics is structurally orchestrated around continued military intervention and at last count it seems there is U.S. military presence in over 100 countries. Of course, in some cases, this presence acts as a deterrent, ie is contributive to peace. But in others, there is no end in sight, so world peace, wonderful ideal, but sadly, unaligned with America’s foreign policy fundamentals.
Ben & Peta