“Viet Nam. It grabs you and doesn’t let you go. Once you love it, you love it forever.” Anthony Bourdain.
Over 200 episodes of 2 television shows, no country enraptured Anthony Bourdain, (the global, irreverent and adventurous chef), more so than Viet Nam, a country he called, one of his favourite places on earth.
Hear, hear. We haven’t done 200 tv shows, but we have written 77 Green Global Trek blog posts on Viet Nam. A tribute to how this country , as Anthony Bourdain says, has “grabbed” us .
So how does it feel to be back in Hoi An?
We have been here for two weeks now and, quite simply, it feels great ~ fortuitous, serendipitous, exciting and almost surreal.
Hoi An feels like home. Hoi An is home.
It is a place where the people, food and culture totally resonate with both of us. We launched what became our almost two year South East Asian nomadic chapter, from Hoi An. And this first exposure to Asia made an indelible impression on us.
This is our fifth time in Hoi An. And every visit, no matter how long or how short, adds a new layer to our Hoi An experience.
We land in Danang after a short 1 hour flight from Saigon and head towards Hoi An. Before we even find our rental house, our first stop is a motorcycle shop. In five minutes we rent a motorcycle and Ben hops on, following the taxi with me and the luggage in it. By renting a house (for 6 weeks) ahead of time, we have secured ourselves a soft landing, with plenty of time to find a more long term place to rent afterwards.
Having a motorcycle right away is critically important. We want to drop off our luggage, and head straight into town to find some of our favourite street food vendors, for our first dinner in Hoi An. And then in the morning, we need to be able to wake up and head out ~ as early morning is when the streets of Hoi An are alive and buzzing with activity. Everyone hits the street food stands starting at 6 a.m. and by 10 in the morning, the street food vendors are usually sold out and closing up. Breakfast is no time to dilly dally.
We drive across the rice paddies, we know so well, (bordered with lotus leaves in a deep shade of green and huge open skies) to the centre of town.
Street Food
These bbq pork skewers (Thit Nuong) are the bomb! They are marinated in a secret sauce (top right) and then grilled over hot ashes.
The meat gets wrapped in a piece of rice paper, with the addition of a flat circular soft rice noodle. Greens, fresh herbs and cucumber are added. Roll it all up and dip in the sauce. Yum. (This is one of the rare times that Peta eats meat). Cost: $0.40 per stick.There is a small market, somewhat off the beaten track where we always had our favourite “crispies” dish. We go back and we find the spot. Here, in a tiny space between other stalls, the street food vendor is still frying up little crispies, four skillets at a time, with customers waiting patiently for their plate.
This dish (we have fondly nicknamed as crispies,) is Banh Khot ~ Crispy, small rice flour shells, some filled with quail eggs, some plain, with greens and pickled daikon and sweet chili sauce. We’ve never seen these served anywhere else in Viet Nam.
There are SO many different vendors that one could literally eat at a different street food stall for every breakfast and dinner for months, and still not have tried all of them.Small Liliput size chairs are standard.
One Cau Lau and one Mi Quangplease. Both of these dishes are Hoi An specialties. Every vendor has his or her own “twist” on the dish. Core components are rice noodles made fresh every day, a variety of greens, and then a combination of pork slices, shrimp, quail eggs, peanuts. Add lime, and/or chilis. (Bottom dish of Mi Quang has in this case, crispy shrimp crackers.)
Driving along on our motor-scooter we stop at a traffic light and notice a food stand we haven’t seen before. We pull over to go and check it out. Rotisserie duck ~ beak, eyes and all. Off putting to one of us, and yet, there is something very real about cooking an animal in its entirety, not disguised as anything else and not mistaken as anything else.Next to the rotisserie another woman is chopping ducks into pieces. Her whole face is covered with a face mask to protect from the sun, as is common here ~ Just a small slit for her eyes.
Even desserts are sold on the street. A creamy condensed milk base with added ingredients such as beans and fruit.
This dish Banh Mi Op Lais a new find for us. A Vietnamese version of shakshuka. Eggs cooked in individual skillets, crispy on the edges, runny in the middle, pork and a mushroom meatball, as well as herbs and a variety of sauces are added. A fresh baguette (a remnant from France’s colonial era presence), accompanies the dish, to sop it all up or eat as a sandwich. The literal translation is ‘omelette sandwich”. Cost: $1.60.
Every little stool and table is occupied with hungry locals waiting for their banh mi op la.
But it’s not all about meat and noodles. Plenty of seafood to be had as, after all, Hoi An is a fishing town on the South China Sea. Scallops, shells, grilled with lime, herbs, sauce and peanuts added for a delicious combination of flavours.
In addition to markets with fresh fruit and vegetables, there is also an assortment of fruit carts throughout the centre of town offering fruits of the season. In this case, the delectable Mangosteen piled high.
Every market has fresh coconuts. Coconuts are cracked open for their water (top right) and then the flesh is scraped and added to that.
With Hoi An expanding and drawing more visitors than ever, there are now places that offer breakfast options to travellers, such as smoothie bowls… a welcome addition for those of us that enjoy fruit to start off the day.
An Bang beach
An important dimension to Hoi An is its attractive beach, An Bang Beach.
The waters here are temperate and calm, with the soft mounds of Cham Island in the distance. The beach has rows of thatch umbrellas for shade, a bunch of restaurants and that’s about it.
It’s good to be back! During the day, the only locals that would be found on any beach in Hoi An, are fishermen, vendors, newspaper sellers and restaurant owners. Locals arrive at the beach once the sun starts to go down.
As the day draws to a close and the sun starts to go down, the seafood beach vendors start setting up, Either they have pre prepared snacks, such as this one, small rice noodles filled with seafood, or they cook seafood on portable grills.
Locals avoid the harsh sun during the day, and instead swim at night en masse in the warm watersGroups of families and friends gather at night on the beach. Straw mats are set up and one can rent them for a few dongs… order some beer and seafood and settle in for the evening.
Friends
As we go about re-acquainting ourselves with Hoi An, driving, eating, going to yoga, doing some market shopping, we reconnect with several people from our former lives here.
When we first came to Hoi An in 2013, we lived with a farming couple who, upon hearing we wanted to learn about organic farming, agreed to welcome us in their humble home. At that time there were no home-stays on the 100 year old farm, and we were clearly the first foreigners to stay there. “Auntie” as she is affectionately known, had very limited English, and we had no Vietnamese. But no matter, because friendship and mutual affection are not dependent upon a common language.
Now that we are back in Hoi An, we drive through the 100 year old farm, and Auntie spots our motorcycle coming down the little path in the middle of the neat rows of herbs. She runs out from her work in the fields, beaming ear to ear.
Sweet reunion.
Auntie remembers how much I love fresh greens and immediately sets about cutting me a tray full of lettuce and herbs to take home.
Tra Que(pronounced Cha Weh) is famous in Viet Nam for its organic practices. This farm has retained its traditional organic practices for over a hundred years. For example, river seaweed is used as compost and chilis are crushed an added to the water well so that insects are naturally repelled from eating the plants ~ different parcels of land are owned by different farmers ~ the greens grown here supply all of Hoi An and get “exported” throughout Viet Nam.
As we are cruising along one day, we hear someone shout “Ahhhhh!” and we know we have been spotted. It is Hahn, also known as Flower, a woman who owns a motorcycle shop and who was a driver for us when friends came into town and needed rides around and about by motorcycle.
We stop at our favorite place for sugar cane juice. Big hugs and smiles all around. Loyalty to food street vendors and shop owners is considered important here.
And Hien, one of the young women who worked at the restaurant at the farm on Tra Que, five years ago, is now married and has an adorable little baby boy. We get to meet him as well as her husband when we meet up for Ban Xeo for dinner.
At the beach, one of the guys that used to sell Ben his newspaper, recognizes us. (Tragically, the US military’s use of agent orange impacted the population in what is now Central Vietnam, and there is a significant number of people who have had to endure handicaps as a result. The city employs a number of them to sell the local English newspaper.)
Landscape
Another attribute of Hoi An, is the soft light here. Somewhat akin to the light in France, (which drew many a painter and still does.) Each day as the sun goes down, the rice paddies and river system are swathed in dramatic pastel tones. Huge open skies, with beautiful cloud formations. What a landscape!
Rice farmers work the land, just as their forbearers have, for generations beforehand.
Rental house
As we ride our bike towards the house we are staying in, we are continuously reminded that this area, in between the beach and the city centre, is both rural and suburban. Farmers walk their cows home at the end of the day.
As soon as we knew we were heading to Hoi An we decided to find a house ahead of time for a few weeks and did so on an expat facebook page ~ (a family returning to Europe for six weeks was looking to sublet their home.)
As we had hoped, the house provides us with a very soft landing. More luxurious than we are used to and larger than we need, the house has a swimming pool. In the current high temperatures which soar daily into the high nineties, the pool is a great treat. We use it daily.
Never one for A.C. until there really is no option, off we go and buy a fan for the bedroom. How to transport said fan? on our motorbike. After living in South East Asia for six years now, this feels as normal as can be.
These two white boards which Ben needs for work present more of a transportation challenge. I sit behind them with my view completely blocked and hope for the best…
One of the best features of this house is that it comes with two felines and a dog! Instant pets.
A gateway to a new round of adventure in a place we love….
Logistics
There is always “stuff” that one has to take care of when setting up a new home base. We have been busy, productive and successful across the board:
Home: We start the search for a place to rent from mid August. We see a few ‘ho hum’ homes, and then find a house we really like. Done. We move in August 10.
Wheels: we want to buy a second hand motorcycle as it’s more cost effective than renting. Done.
Banking: Open a bank account so we will no longer be charged each time we do an ATM withdrawal. Done.
Fresh produce: Arranged our first delivery of fruits and vegetables. Given the heat, having a steady supply of fresh produce delivered to the house is a big treat. Of course we can still always go to the market, but it’s nice to start the week with a delivery.
Exercise: We are happy to find that the yoga studio we went to before is still in business.
Art: We buy art supplies: canvas, paints, brushes.
Peta volunteers for a position, and gets hired. (But that’s another post.)
Not bad for just two weeks! OK, we are fully set up. Feels like we never left.
I can feel what a great pleasure it is for you both to be back in Vietnam, and in Hoi An. And that initial 6 week rental looks fabulous! And it sounds like you’ve got the essentials taken care of – home, motor cycle, bank account etc. You two don’t let the grass grow under your feet. I too love Vietnam and would love to go back there and explore more. You know I’m not a foodie, but your post makes me want to come back if only for the food!
Alison
Alison, you hit the nail on the head here. We are certainly enjoying the luxury of our rental for our first six weeks. It has been great especially to have a pool and pets. Actually, we take a lot of time to chill, but we do like to be productive as well. “Work hard and play hard” is the motto.
Ah yes, Vietnamese food especially in Hoi An, is reason enough to visit. But there is so much more…
You two are amazing at adapting. Its all about attitude! I love this – friendship and mutual affection are not dependent upon a common language. I so believe in this.
And I was pleased to see your temporary place comes with pets. It’s win win all around. I can’t wait to hear about your job. Sending hugs. xo
Thanks Darlene. We agree that attitude is 90% of the puzzle. The rest is just diligent work. We both enjoy change and so we embrace it and make the most of it. We know that the sooner our new home base normalizes, the least disruptive are changes and geography. So with a set of wheels, bank account, nice play to stay, we are grounded and ready to start our new life chapter here.
Hoi An is a treasure. We’ll be in Ho Chi Minh for 18 days from 1 August. Our daughter is in the Australian consulate there. If we make our way to Hoi An, maybe we could catch up for a meal.
What an exciting beginning to your new chapter! Old friends and new temporary pets… the best! Looking forward to reading more about your life in Hoi An!
Thanks. We are looking forward to what the next few weeks will bring us. We are enjoying reconnecting with old friends and yes, the pets in the house are a great addition as one of the disadvantages of being nomadic is the lack of pets.
And to think, an adverse turn of events drove you to this lovely place.
I can so picture the two of you on the motorcycle at 6am, on your way to breakfast. The rest of us can only dream of those crispies.
Ahhh Johnny, but what sweet dreams they are! Life is always interesting isn’t it? If we can ride the waves as gracefully and optimistically as possible then we find the universe will usually deliver viable options
Great idea to find temporary accommodation to make life easier when you first got there and for it to be so beautiful must have been a big bonus. No wonder you wanted to head out in a hurry for your meals – the food looks fantastic. I’m so excited to read about your new home and new life in future posts.
It will be interesting to see how our life unfolds here, given that we have lived here before. This makes for a different kind of experience than when one arrives in a place which is completely unknown.
The house was a great find and a surprisingly attractive price, no doubt due to the fact that there are animals to take care of. For us, that is of course a plus.
Hi
Love hearing all about your new digs and how the opportunity presented itself. Soooo fun. I have tentative plans to go to Puri to work at an orphanage, that I have been to before, with a friend and then going to Thailand and Vietnam for a few months maybe we’ll pass through??? It would be such fun. Just in the dreaming stage now. Life is good still in Florida off to Montana this week and who knows??? Is Brook coming to see you?? Send my love to Ben. One of these days hope to visit Sri Lanka again too.
Lovely to read you Heidi. Hope you do make it through Hoi An so that we can have a reunion here. Hope you have a meaningful experience in India at the orphanage, that sounds like a very worthwhile thing to do.
I hope Brook gets to visit us here. We keep thinking of her as we spent six weeks here together before we all flew to Sri Lanka, so we have many good memories together.
The stars have definitely aligned for you.Hoi An sounds like an absolute gem of a place and you have everything you need there. The food alone is-a good reason to move there. I love how you even managed to carry bits and pieces on your motorcycle like the locals do. Great post, I will be looking forward to the next installment 🙂
Thanks Gilda, the stars have indeed aligned. Hoi An is one of those magical places even though these days it is quite crowded in the historic center with masses of tourists. Still it is easy to get away from the madding crowd.
When the only transportation you have is motorcycle, then yes, when in Rome do as the Romans do…
So lovely 😊 so much has happened so soon 🙂 absolutely adore Vietnam 🇻🇳 one of the few places we said we would revisit! Enjoy these exciting times 🙂 big love xxx
Every sunset over the rice paddy seems more dramatic than the next.. and that lovely time around dusk is gorgeous here. Never fails to deliver. The soft light is something that I really love…. Thanks for your comments Jo.
Lovely! I so enjoy reading about your adventures. I have to experience Vietnam one day. I’m already a fan of the food and the people. Can’t wait for your next post!
Thanks! So glad you are enjoying our blog. I hope you do get to experience Viet Nam one day. The people are not shy, and they have a great sense of humour which makes interactions fun and interesting. Thanks for reading and leaving your feedback.
We have not owned a car in over 10 years, from the time we left the U.S. In Asia, for us, the easiest way to get around is definitely on a motorcycle, and in Vietnam even more so, as it is how the majority of the population moves about town.
When we first came here six years ago, the roads had 95% motorcycles, whereas today the road is shared with cars, buses and hotel shuttles to keep up with the increase in tourism traffic. It’s still entirely more safe than riding a motorcycle in Sri Lanka (our hoem for the last 3 years), which is positively hair raising.
Thanks Judy for reading us and for leaving your comments,
So many beautiful images in this post, and you sound so happy! It’s amazing what you’ve accomplished in only two weeks. And how wonderful that you’re reconnecting with friends from the last time you were there.
The food looks absolutely fabulous. Do locals cook at home at all? There seems no reason to, with so much deliciousness available everywhere (and so reasonable!). Yum. You can never post too many food photos for me, LOL!
Laurel, you ask a good question about cooking at home… Most Vietnamese eat many of their meals on the streets, especially in cities where food is readily available everywhere at a low cost.
Perhaps it is also because many households do not have a fridge.
Hi Peta and Ben, Hoi An is home, says it all. I appreciate the map you included with this post. The food looks amazing again. Fresh, healthy and I love the addition of lime, always. I am more accustomed to the smoothie bowls although, anything seafood is always great. The swimming at night makes sense, especially when it is safe. Nice to meet up with “old friends.” Your photos are amazing as always. I am transported to another land and another life, although, always on our home planet:) Thank you:)
Thank you Erica for these thoughtful comments. Glad you appreciated the map because we stuck it in at the last minute, almost forgot to put one as the region feels very familiar to us after 6 years of being in Asia. But it’s a good reminder of our “neighbourhood”.
Yes you do. Hoi An is such a chill place compared to Saigon, it’s hard to believe it’s only a one hour flight away. Come and try a Hoi An style Ban Xeo (smaller and crispier than yours in Saigon).
There’s a happiness that exudes from this post and the smile on your face in the photos reenforces it.
I was most curious about your comment on the light. It would never have occurred to me that the light is different from place to place which in itself would inspire artists. Your desire for art supplies makes total sense 🙂
The food looks amazing! … and the locals gathering on the beach in the evenings looks like an instant party scene.
Oh yes, Joanne, there is ABSOLUTELY such a thing as different light. France is famous for the soft pastel light and it is the very reason why so many artists have flocked to France for centuries. Because Peta is a painter, she is very much aware of that and it is one of the best attributes of Hoi An that, as you wrote, may not be so obvious.
I am personally very glad to see Peta buy some art material. It is a good omen. I love seeing our white walls become incrementally populated by small and large paintings that reflect our surroundings.
You have captured your new home base so well, with photos and text. Welcome home! And what a productive two weeks. I’m glad you don’t have to add “cook meals” to your busy schedule, as the amount of street vendors is endless and the price for food is right! I’m curious about your new position, Peta. What a fantastic start of your new lives!
As i read through your posts and gazed and the beautiful and delicious photos I could feel your contentment and happiness oozing from your words. I especially loved the reunions and how people recognized you five years later. In two weeks you have accomplished a great deal. Bravo to both of you for your adaptability and willingness to embrace new chapters of life.
Thank you Sue for your encouragement. Adaptability is our game. Inherent in having a nomadic lifestyle. So fun to come back to a place and have people not only recognize us, but welcome us so warmly.
We have had to be productive because, on the work front, Ben has hit the ground running. It was important to ensure that the practical dimensions of our lives be adequately addressed right away.
Wow, way to hit the ground running. All the food looks marvelous and most of it gluten free! Gorgeous skies, pool, pets.. soft landing indeed. Congratulations on getting it all done. Excited to see your new house too.
Ya you know how we are… we try to get the important stuff in place so we can chill 🙂
Yes all the noodles are made from rice which is really great from a gluten free point of view. Trying to avoid those baguettes is a challenge – they are so good!
Excited to move into the new place. It’s simple but spacious and has a nice view.
I am soooo happy for you guys! Your happiness at being back in Hoi An and Vietnam leaps off the page. You are the most amazing global citizens, and you adapt so quickly and well to new surroundings; I am impressed as always. I am also more and more eager to get to Vietnam ASAP. Congrats on all the tasks completed so far – can’t wait to hear more. (And that house looks unbelievable; I want to be the next renter!)
Come and visit! Viet Nam is so unique, you need to experience it.
The house we are in right now is very comfy and rather luxurious. Our own rental will be simpler but also in a better location. This one is a bit “way the fuck out there” with nowhere walkable. Its not usually for rent, only so because the family are in Europe for the summer vacation. So maybe next year this time, it could be yours?
Love this post, I’ve drooled all over the computer just from your descriptions as I still can’t see the images. But the food sounds SO good, healthy and tasty. Maybe not the entire cooked duck but I get your point about it. What an incredible experience to ride into town and be recognized by everyone even though you haven’t seen them for a while. Actually, I had a similar if less exciting moment. Attended our local summer art fair when a young woman ran up because she recognized me as her art teacher, 10 years ago. It was a thrill that she knew me and that she introduced her adult self to me – the pleasures of teaching. I’m glad you got art supplies – maybe you’ll post photos of your work? I’ve seen a few paintings in past posts – you’re very talented. I hope you weren’t the one steering the motorcycle from behind the boards – that’s a bit risky in my book – LOL. Best wishes on our new job. It wouldn’t be as a taste tester, would it?
Sharon, thanks for all this in depth feedback on this post. Bummed you can’t see the images as the beauty of Hoi An is hard to describe. You gotta see it! We always enjoying reading your comments.
What a compliment to you as a teacher to have a student recognise and come up to you ten years later!
I first have to master the techniques of acrylic paint as in the past I have primarily used oils. Then I can start getting back into it. Hopefully painting is like riding a bike… But, in any case you won’t be able to see them. Ah, if you get curious enough you might even get your computer fixed haha.
Now THAT’S my dream job. Being a taste tester! I guess you figured that one out… But short of that, I think I found something that is just where I need to be for right now.. More on that later, once I start the job.
Sounds like an awesome homecoming and where better than in Hoi An, definitely my favourite place in Vietnam too. At the moment, I am counting the weeks to my return to Vietnam, although I will probably set up home in Ha Noi… More chance of work for me, but I will miss the beach… Will definitely have a look at some of your previous posts on Vietnam and South East Asia for that matter. I
Yup, what a homecoming. No adjustment phase, more of a feeling of wow, it’s great to be back in a place we both love.
Good luck setting up in Hanoi ~ now am wondering what your work there will be? There is a wonderful region just South of Hanoi, in case you have not been, called Ninh Binh, which has all the dramatic landscapes of Ha Long Bay without the high cost and hordes of tourists. Enjoy the archives and welcome to our Green Global Trek.
Seems like every time I read of someone becoming enamored with Viet Nam, the name Hoi An gets mentioned. I imagine some of that is you folks mentioning it so frequently, but you don’t seem to be the only ones. Is it really that much more enticing than the rest of the country? Is it more popular because of more expats and organized tourism? What’s the secret aura?
Dave that is a great question. Hoi An just got named best city in the world for 2019 by Travel and Leisure magazine, and believe you me, we are not happy that the secret is now out.
To your questions…there are at least five reasons why Hoi An stands out:
1) The architecture of the old town is unique, beautiful and in good condition. (The basis for it being a UNESCO World Heritage site.
2) The food culture is extensive, even within the context of a Vietnamese culinary culture that is well developed. This has to do with the culinary history in Central Vietnam which is specific to this region. Also, most dishes in Hoi An come accompanied by piles of fresh herbs and greens, which is not typical in the rest of the country.
3) The pace of life for a city, is palpably different to other other Vietnamese cities we have been to. It is more relaxed and laid back. It is like asking the difference between Paris and Montpellier, or New York and Kansas City.
4) Proximity to a beach in combination with the UNESCO World Heritage site is a unique feature.
Now, if that still leaves you curious, feel free to explore our archives for more on Hoi An and you can also compare it for yourself via our posts with other places in VIet Nam.
That said, the secret IS out and it is WAY more crowded in the historical part of the city with tourists than it used to be. Most of those tourists right now in July, are from Korea. And then in September is apparently when the Europeans come. And yes, there are more expats here than there USED to be , say six years ago when we first lived here, but still proportionately this figure is not remarkable.
Hoi An has a magic all of its own. For us an added distinct feature, which for many might be missed or not appreciated even, and that is the light. The soft light, the way it bathes the landscape in the late afternoons in pastel hues is something to behold.
Of course, somebody is doing their job in terms of public relations and getting articles out there and with a tourism industry that grew 20% year over year in 2018, and with Hoi An being the number 1 tourist destination, then it is not surprising that you are seeing a spike in PR pieces in travel magazines etc, or by people in the travel blogging world. Hope this answers our question.
Andrea! Can’t wait to hear how you are enjoying life in Bangkok and what your job is like there? Welcome to the neighbourhood! We are a short flight away. Come and visit us….
What a tasty and successful adventure you’re having in Vietnam! The landscape is screaming to be painted so I look forward to seeing future posts about this.
Yes, yes I do hope to start painting some time soon. Meantime I started a job, even though we haven’t moved into our home yet.. we have been here just three weeks. There are so many beautiful scenes that make me want to pick up my paintbrush here.
I can feel your joy and excitement about being back in Vietnam and especially Hoi An. The fact that you were able to get reacquainted with friends and that people like the newspaper vendor recognized you from years back must be especially touching. Looks like you guys are well on your way with the logistics—impressive!
Thanks Caroline.. yes Hoi An is definitely one of those recurring home bases ~ and a place that we both are happy to come back to. We leave, we come back and we pick up from where we left off. In many ways, it feels easier to live here than Sri Lanka, but that’s another story…
Yup, we like to get the logistics taken care of asap so we can chill at the pool and beach and move on with life.
You took a circuitous route but its good to see you finally calling Vietnam home (or calling it home on a more permanent basis). Fortuitous, serendipitous, surreal; all true indeed.
Love how you went to the motorcycle shop before finding your rental house ;-). You look like locals transporting fans and white boards on motor bikes.
Gorgeous street vendor shots. How I miss that food – the best in SE Asia. And those landscapes are calling me back.
What a wonderful homecoming to reconnect with Auntie and Flower and Hein.
Peta, what a beautifully written account of Hoi An and your homecoming there. I love your observation about the quality of the light. Yes! As a painter myself, it takes me a long time to get used to a new place that has a different quality of light before I feel ready to start painting landscapes there. Perhaps that explains why I have been just starting to start painting again after moving two years ago, even though the vistas here on Vancouver Island are gorgeous.
Thank you Jude for such lovely comments.Thanks for reinforcing the observation about light. It might seem surprising to some to comment on the light, but as a painter, it is an attribute that is more noticeable.
We have been reading a lot about Vancouver Island lately and it sounds amazing. One day perhaps we will get the opportunity to visit it.
Hey… we where in Hoi An this spring for a month… loved it also. We enjoyed SOUND OF SILENCE… a great coffee house cafe on the beach.
Lance & Kathy Mentink
Thanks for stopping by to read us Lance and Kathy and for leaving a comment. We will check that place out, thanks for the recommend.
Peta
Wow, you’ve got it all there. Beautiful food, people, landscapes and a fan.
Thanks for the trip!
Charles
Yes, Peta has many fans!
Ben
I can feel what a great pleasure it is for you both to be back in Vietnam, and in Hoi An. And that initial 6 week rental looks fabulous! And it sounds like you’ve got the essentials taken care of – home, motor cycle, bank account etc. You two don’t let the grass grow under your feet. I too love Vietnam and would love to go back there and explore more. You know I’m not a foodie, but your post makes me want to come back if only for the food!
Alison
Alison, you hit the nail on the head here. We are certainly enjoying the luxury of our rental for our first six weeks. It has been great especially to have a pool and pets. Actually, we take a lot of time to chill, but we do like to be productive as well. “Work hard and play hard” is the motto.
Ah yes, Vietnamese food especially in Hoi An, is reason enough to visit. But there is so much more…
Peta
You two are amazing at adapting. Its all about attitude! I love this – friendship and mutual affection are not dependent upon a common language. I so believe in this.
And I was pleased to see your temporary place comes with pets. It’s win win all around. I can’t wait to hear about your job. Sending hugs. xo
Thanks Darlene. We agree that attitude is 90% of the puzzle. The rest is just diligent work. We both enjoy change and so we embrace it and make the most of it. We know that the sooner our new home base normalizes, the least disruptive are changes and geography. So with a set of wheels, bank account, nice play to stay, we are grounded and ready to start our new life chapter here.
Peta
How lovely to meet up with old friends and feel at home so instantly.
Anabel, yes we are amused at how many people remember us from 3 years ago and even 6 years ago and it certainly feels most welcoming.
Peta
Hoi An is a treasure. We’ll be in Ho Chi Minh for 18 days from 1 August. Our daughter is in the Australian consulate there. If we make our way to Hoi An, maybe we could catch up for a meal.
If you make it to Hoi An, we would love to have a meal together. Enjoy your trip to Ho Chi Minh and the time with your daughter there.
Peta
What an exciting beginning to your new chapter! Old friends and new temporary pets… the best! Looking forward to reading more about your life in Hoi An!
Thanks. We are looking forward to what the next few weeks will bring us. We are enjoying reconnecting with old friends and yes, the pets in the house are a great addition as one of the disadvantages of being nomadic is the lack of pets.
Peta
And to think, an adverse turn of events drove you to this lovely place.
I can so picture the two of you on the motorcycle at 6am, on your way to breakfast. The rest of us can only dream of those crispies.
Ahhh Johnny, but what sweet dreams they are! Life is always interesting isn’t it? If we can ride the waves as gracefully and optimistically as possible then we find the universe will usually deliver viable options
Nice to read you.
Peta
Great idea to find temporary accommodation to make life easier when you first got there and for it to be so beautiful must have been a big bonus. No wonder you wanted to head out in a hurry for your meals – the food looks fantastic. I’m so excited to read about your new home and new life in future posts.
It will be interesting to see how our life unfolds here, given that we have lived here before. This makes for a different kind of experience than when one arrives in a place which is completely unknown.
The house was a great find and a surprisingly attractive price, no doubt due to the fact that there are animals to take care of. For us, that is of course a plus.
Thanks for reading us and leaving your comments.
Peta
Hi
Love hearing all about your new digs and how the opportunity presented itself. Soooo fun. I have tentative plans to go to Puri to work at an orphanage, that I have been to before, with a friend and then going to Thailand and Vietnam for a few months maybe we’ll pass through??? It would be such fun. Just in the dreaming stage now. Life is good still in Florida off to Montana this week and who knows??? Is Brook coming to see you?? Send my love to Ben. One of these days hope to visit Sri Lanka again too.
Lovely to read you Heidi. Hope you do make it through Hoi An so that we can have a reunion here. Hope you have a meaningful experience in India at the orphanage, that sounds like a very worthwhile thing to do.
I hope Brook gets to visit us here. We keep thinking of her as we spent six weeks here together before we all flew to Sri Lanka, so we have many good memories together.
Peta
The stars have definitely aligned for you.Hoi An sounds like an absolute gem of a place and you have everything you need there. The food alone is-a good reason to move there. I love how you even managed to carry bits and pieces on your motorcycle like the locals do. Great post, I will be looking forward to the next installment 🙂
Thanks Gilda, the stars have indeed aligned. Hoi An is one of those magical places even though these days it is quite crowded in the historic center with masses of tourists. Still it is easy to get away from the madding crowd.
When the only transportation you have is motorcycle, then yes, when in Rome do as the Romans do…
Peta
So lovely 😊 so much has happened so soon 🙂 absolutely adore Vietnam 🇻🇳 one of the few places we said we would revisit! Enjoy these exciting times 🙂 big love xxx
Lovely to read your comments Tes. I hope you do get to revisit and come and see us here. Life is never boring… xoxoxo
P
I can see how well it suits you, and how happy you are to be there. Wonderful sunsets! 🙂 🙂
Every sunset over the rice paddy seems more dramatic than the next.. and that lovely time around dusk is gorgeous here. Never fails to deliver. The soft light is something that I really love…. Thanks for your comments Jo.
Peta
Lovely! I so enjoy reading about your adventures. I have to experience Vietnam one day. I’m already a fan of the food and the people. Can’t wait for your next post!
Thanks! So glad you are enjoying our blog. I hope you do get to experience Viet Nam one day. The people are not shy, and they have a great sense of humour which makes interactions fun and interesting. Thanks for reading and leaving your feedback.
Peta
Vietnam looks like an amazing place. I’ve never been. It’s on my bucket list. I’m in awe of how you travel around on a bike there.
The food looks appealing too. Enjoy your time.
We have not owned a car in over 10 years, from the time we left the U.S. In Asia, for us, the easiest way to get around is definitely on a motorcycle, and in Vietnam even more so, as it is how the majority of the population moves about town.
When we first came here six years ago, the roads had 95% motorcycles, whereas today the road is shared with cars, buses and hotel shuttles to keep up with the increase in tourism traffic. It’s still entirely more safe than riding a motorcycle in Sri Lanka (our hoem for the last 3 years), which is positively hair raising.
Thanks Judy for reading us and for leaving your comments,
Peta
So many beautiful images in this post, and you sound so happy! It’s amazing what you’ve accomplished in only two weeks. And how wonderful that you’re reconnecting with friends from the last time you were there.
The food looks absolutely fabulous. Do locals cook at home at all? There seems no reason to, with so much deliciousness available everywhere (and so reasonable!). Yum. You can never post too many food photos for me, LOL!
Laurel, you ask a good question about cooking at home… Most Vietnamese eat many of their meals on the streets, especially in cities where food is readily available everywhere at a low cost.
Perhaps it is also because many households do not have a fridge.
Glad you like the food porn.
Peta
Hi Peta and Ben, Hoi An is home, says it all. I appreciate the map you included with this post. The food looks amazing again. Fresh, healthy and I love the addition of lime, always. I am more accustomed to the smoothie bowls although, anything seafood is always great. The swimming at night makes sense, especially when it is safe. Nice to meet up with “old friends.” Your photos are amazing as always. I am transported to another land and another life, although, always on our home planet:) Thank you:)
Thank you Erica for these thoughtful comments. Glad you appreciated the map because we stuck it in at the last minute, almost forgot to put one as the region feels very familiar to us after 6 years of being in Asia. But it’s a good reminder of our “neighbourhood”.
Thanks for stopping by,
Ben
Riding through rice paddies, stopping for amazing food….. oh it all sounds wonderful. I need to get up to Hoi An one of these days.
Yes you do. Hoi An is such a chill place compared to Saigon, it’s hard to believe it’s only a one hour flight away. Come and try a Hoi An style Ban Xeo (smaller and crispier than yours in Saigon).
Peta
There’s a happiness that exudes from this post and the smile on your face in the photos reenforces it.
I was most curious about your comment on the light. It would never have occurred to me that the light is different from place to place which in itself would inspire artists. Your desire for art supplies makes total sense 🙂
The food looks amazing! … and the locals gathering on the beach in the evenings looks like an instant party scene.
Oh yes, Joanne, there is ABSOLUTELY such a thing as different light. France is famous for the soft pastel light and it is the very reason why so many artists have flocked to France for centuries. Because Peta is a painter, she is very much aware of that and it is one of the best attributes of Hoi An that, as you wrote, may not be so obvious.
I am personally very glad to see Peta buy some art material. It is a good omen. I love seeing our white walls become incrementally populated by small and large paintings that reflect our surroundings.
Ben
You have captured your new home base so well, with photos and text. Welcome home! And what a productive two weeks. I’m glad you don’t have to add “cook meals” to your busy schedule, as the amount of street vendors is endless and the price for food is right! I’m curious about your new position, Peta. What a fantastic start of your new lives!
Stay tuned, Liesbet, re the new job. Not ready to put it out there yet. Yes, a great start indeed.
Peta
As i read through your posts and gazed and the beautiful and delicious photos I could feel your contentment and happiness oozing from your words. I especially loved the reunions and how people recognized you five years later. In two weeks you have accomplished a great deal. Bravo to both of you for your adaptability and willingness to embrace new chapters of life.
Thank you Sue for your encouragement. Adaptability is our game. Inherent in having a nomadic lifestyle. So fun to come back to a place and have people not only recognize us, but welcome us so warmly.
We have had to be productive because, on the work front, Ben has hit the ground running. It was important to ensure that the practical dimensions of our lives be adequately addressed right away.
Peta
Wow, way to hit the ground running. All the food looks marvelous and most of it gluten free! Gorgeous skies, pool, pets.. soft landing indeed. Congratulations on getting it all done. Excited to see your new house too.
Ya you know how we are… we try to get the important stuff in place so we can chill 🙂
Yes all the noodles are made from rice which is really great from a gluten free point of view. Trying to avoid those baguettes is a challenge – they are so good!
Excited to move into the new place. It’s simple but spacious and has a nice view.
Thanks, always, for your feedback
xoxo
You pack more into 2 weeks than I’ve done in 74 years! Great post as always. Yum on!
Hahaha that’s funny!
We know the sooner we take care of priorities the better ~ especially given Ben’s full work schedule and my new one too!
Peta
I am soooo happy for you guys! Your happiness at being back in Hoi An and Vietnam leaps off the page. You are the most amazing global citizens, and you adapt so quickly and well to new surroundings; I am impressed as always. I am also more and more eager to get to Vietnam ASAP. Congrats on all the tasks completed so far – can’t wait to hear more. (And that house looks unbelievable; I want to be the next renter!)
Thanks Lex! Those are lovely compliments.
Come and visit! Viet Nam is so unique, you need to experience it.
The house we are in right now is very comfy and rather luxurious. Our own rental will be simpler but also in a better location. This one is a bit “way the fuck out there” with nowhere walkable. Its not usually for rent, only so because the family are in Europe for the summer vacation. So maybe next year this time, it could be yours?
Peta
Love this post, I’ve drooled all over the computer just from your descriptions as I still can’t see the images. But the food sounds SO good, healthy and tasty. Maybe not the entire cooked duck but I get your point about it. What an incredible experience to ride into town and be recognized by everyone even though you haven’t seen them for a while. Actually, I had a similar if less exciting moment. Attended our local summer art fair when a young woman ran up because she recognized me as her art teacher, 10 years ago. It was a thrill that she knew me and that she introduced her adult self to me – the pleasures of teaching. I’m glad you got art supplies – maybe you’ll post photos of your work? I’ve seen a few paintings in past posts – you’re very talented. I hope you weren’t the one steering the motorcycle from behind the boards – that’s a bit risky in my book – LOL. Best wishes on our new job. It wouldn’t be as a taste tester, would it?
Sharon, thanks for all this in depth feedback on this post. Bummed you can’t see the images as the beauty of Hoi An is hard to describe. You gotta see it! We always enjoying reading your comments.
What a compliment to you as a teacher to have a student recognise and come up to you ten years later!
I first have to master the techniques of acrylic paint as in the past I have primarily used oils. Then I can start getting back into it. Hopefully painting is like riding a bike… But, in any case you won’t be able to see them. Ah, if you get curious enough you might even get your computer fixed haha.
Now THAT’S my dream job. Being a taste tester! I guess you figured that one out… But short of that, I think I found something that is just where I need to be for right now.. More on that later, once I start the job.
Peta
Sounds like an awesome homecoming and where better than in Hoi An, definitely my favourite place in Vietnam too. At the moment, I am counting the weeks to my return to Vietnam, although I will probably set up home in Ha Noi… More chance of work for me, but I will miss the beach… Will definitely have a look at some of your previous posts on Vietnam and South East Asia for that matter. I
Lieve
Yup, what a homecoming. No adjustment phase, more of a feeling of wow, it’s great to be back in a place we both love.
Good luck setting up in Hanoi ~ now am wondering what your work there will be? There is a wonderful region just South of Hanoi, in case you have not been, called Ninh Binh, which has all the dramatic landscapes of Ha Long Bay without the high cost and hordes of tourists. Enjoy the archives and welcome to our Green Global Trek.
Peta
Seems like every time I read of someone becoming enamored with Viet Nam, the name Hoi An gets mentioned. I imagine some of that is you folks mentioning it so frequently, but you don’t seem to be the only ones. Is it really that much more enticing than the rest of the country? Is it more popular because of more expats and organized tourism? What’s the secret aura?
Dave that is a great question. Hoi An just got named best city in the world for 2019 by Travel and Leisure magazine, and believe you me, we are not happy that the secret is now out.
To your questions…there are at least five reasons why Hoi An stands out:
1) The architecture of the old town is unique, beautiful and in good condition. (The basis for it being a UNESCO World Heritage site.
2) The food culture is extensive, even within the context of a Vietnamese culinary culture that is well developed. This has to do with the culinary history in Central Vietnam which is specific to this region. Also, most dishes in Hoi An come accompanied by piles of fresh herbs and greens, which is not typical in the rest of the country.
3) The pace of life for a city, is palpably different to other other Vietnamese cities we have been to. It is more relaxed and laid back. It is like asking the difference between Paris and Montpellier, or New York and Kansas City.
4) Proximity to a beach in combination with the UNESCO World Heritage site is a unique feature.
Now, if that still leaves you curious, feel free to explore our archives for more on Hoi An and you can also compare it for yourself via our posts with other places in VIet Nam.
That said, the secret IS out and it is WAY more crowded in the historical part of the city with tourists than it used to be. Most of those tourists right now in July, are from Korea. And then in September is apparently when the Europeans come. And yes, there are more expats here than there USED to be , say six years ago when we first lived here, but still proportionately this figure is not remarkable.
Hoi An has a magic all of its own. For us an added distinct feature, which for many might be missed or not appreciated even, and that is the light. The soft light, the way it bathes the landscape in the late afternoons in pastel hues is something to behold.
Of course, somebody is doing their job in terms of public relations and getting articles out there and with a tourism industry that grew 20% year over year in 2018, and with Hoi An being the number 1 tourist destination, then it is not surprising that you are seeing a spike in PR pieces in travel magazines etc, or by people in the travel blogging world. Hope this answers our question.
Peta and Ben
So happy to hear that you both are settled in Viet Nam! We aren’t so far away from each other now. I’m settled in Bangkok 🙂
Andrea! Can’t wait to hear how you are enjoying life in Bangkok and what your job is like there? Welcome to the neighbourhood! We are a short flight away. Come and visit us….
xoxo
Peta
What a tasty and successful adventure you’re having in Vietnam! The landscape is screaming to be painted so I look forward to seeing future posts about this.
Yes, yes I do hope to start painting some time soon. Meantime I started a job, even though we haven’t moved into our home yet.. we have been here just three weeks. There are so many beautiful scenes that make me want to pick up my paintbrush here.
Peta
I can feel your joy and excitement about being back in Vietnam and especially Hoi An. The fact that you were able to get reacquainted with friends and that people like the newspaper vendor recognized you from years back must be especially touching. Looks like you guys are well on your way with the logistics—impressive!
Thanks Caroline.. yes Hoi An is definitely one of those recurring home bases ~ and a place that we both are happy to come back to. We leave, we come back and we pick up from where we left off. In many ways, it feels easier to live here than Sri Lanka, but that’s another story…
Yup, we like to get the logistics taken care of asap so we can chill at the pool and beach and move on with life.
Peta
You took a circuitous route but its good to see you finally calling Vietnam home (or calling it home on a more permanent basis). Fortuitous, serendipitous, surreal; all true indeed.
Love how you went to the motorcycle shop before finding your rental house ;-). You look like locals transporting fans and white boards on motor bikes.
Gorgeous street vendor shots. How I miss that food – the best in SE Asia. And those landscapes are calling me back.
What a wonderful homecoming to reconnect with Auntie and Flower and Hein.
You look like you are in heaven.
Peta, what a beautifully written account of Hoi An and your homecoming there. I love your observation about the quality of the light. Yes! As a painter myself, it takes me a long time to get used to a new place that has a different quality of light before I feel ready to start painting landscapes there. Perhaps that explains why I have been just starting to start painting again after moving two years ago, even though the vistas here on Vancouver Island are gorgeous.
Jude
Thank you Jude for such lovely comments.Thanks for reinforcing the observation about light. It might seem surprising to some to comment on the light, but as a painter, it is an attribute that is more noticeable.
We have been reading a lot about Vancouver Island lately and it sounds amazing. One day perhaps we will get the opportunity to visit it.
Peta
Well, if you make it for a visit here, we would be happy to show you around.
Jude