It’s hard to leave Ubud, even for a day, as we are in a comfy mode of stillness and serenity. We go to yoga classes, decide where to get our next plant-based meal, Ben does his work calmly and quietly and we are both very happy with every day we have here. But we are mindful that there is so much more to central Bali beyond Ubud.
As we drive out of Ubud, we immediately get a sense of “this is going to be a good day”… small villages with gorgeous architecture, intense green rice paddies and a hilly lush forested terrain. Ravines are full of dense clusters of tall bamboo, orchids, ferns…
As we drive through small villages, there are always temple compounds that feature decorative elements that seem museum worthy.
Ornate Balinese temple design is absolutely unique and captivating in its detail and intricate stone carvings.
Finding a waterfall…
As we drive through villages on our way to the largest Hindu temple in all of Indonesia, we see a handwritten sign that says “big waterfall this way”.
Seems like an invitation we can’t refuse…
A path leads us past expansive rice paddies, lined with forest and a puffy cloudy sky.
The rice plants all curving towards the forest is an indicator of Balinese precision in design.
A muddy path leads us down through a steep gorge that is lined with palm and banana trees. Down we go…
At the bottom there is an arrow. We leave our sandals next to two boys who are fishing in the shallow waters, and head to find the waterfall. (We recall how we did a 45 minute hike in Thailand, some years back, to find a waterfall, only to discover a small trickle…)
Either way it’s fun wading through this clean fresh mountain water, with thick greenery and hanging vines over the huge rock structures.
We hear it before we see it… What a great surprise! And, we have it all to ourselves.
The force and energy of the water is palpable. We waste no time stripping off our clothes and standing under the jet of water ~ which pounds our heads with the strongest waterfall massage. Free shiatsu!
The mother temple ~ Pura Besakih
Our next stop is the largest and most significant Hindu temple in Indonesia.
As we arrive at the base of the entry to the main temple (one of 18 co-located temples) a ceremonial group descends the steps after celebrating a cremation.
The “Mother Temple”, called Pura Besakih, is a temple complex in the village of Besakih, on the slopes of Mount Agung. It is the most important, the largest and holiest temple of the Hindu religion in Bali. The temple is built on six levels terraced up a slope.
One of the benefits of being fortunate to travel is the exposure to different cultures and religions. Cremations in Indonesia are not a cause for sorrow but rather for celebration as the spirit is allowed to release from the physical body.
The main temple is open only to locals. We climb the stairs alongside it ~ each level has decorative sculptures beckoning us up further.
View from the entrance terrace to the main temple. While the dates of construction are disputed, the first recorded instance of Hindu worship at this temple dates to 1284 when the first Javanese conquerers settled in Bali. By the 15th century, Besakih had become a state temple of the powerful Gelgel dynasty.
Balinese temples have strong associations with the number 3. Temples are divided into 3 spaces: an outer courtyard, in addition to 2 holier inner yards (shown here). Each temple also has spaces for worship of Hinduism’s three prominent deities: Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva.
Aside from the temple gates, the most distinguishing feature of Balinese temples are their multi tiered pagodas of varying numbers of thatched roofs. Different towers may be dedicated to different gods. These towers have either 3, 5 , 7, 9 or 11 tiers ~ a sequence of numbers sacred not just in Bali, but in cultures throughout the world. It is said that a Balinese temple’s importance can more or less be determined by its highest pagoda.
It is a misty day on the hilltop where this temple complex and its gardens feel as though they are floating in the sky. The multi-tiered roof tops create dramatic silhouettes against the fog.
We peek into temples and at one of them, a man sees us and comes to speak to us. He tells us he is the holy man of that particular temple and that we cannot enter unless we want to pray. I tell him, we do want to pray and he beckons us in.
In this tranquil holy inner courtyard, it us just us and the holy man. He blesses us both in prayer, showing us how and where to place the flower and incense offerings (which we acquired on our way into the temple).
He asks where we live, and we hear in amongst the long chant just two familiar words repeated… Sri Lanka, Sri Lanka. He has blessed us, and our country of residence. And then, he looks at Ben and says, “you will have good luck in your business now”. (A timely blessing for closure on a big work project that has dragged on for 3 years now.)
After our blessings, he places a pinch of sticky rice in the center of our foreheads (on the third eye).
Back down at the bottom of the temple complex, a group of guys wants a photo with Ben. He happily obliges and we get the shot too. Check out the cutest little girl in front, posing delicately. They are practitioners of a Balinese martial art, who have come here today for a blessing before an important meet.
As one approaches a Balinese temple, the first thing one notices is the Candi Bentar, or split gateway. These gates resemble a mountain that was split into two exactly even parts. To fully grasp the symbolism of the Candi Bentar, some basic familiarity of the legend of Mount Maru is useful.
Mount Maru is a mythological mountain where the gods dwell. It appears not only in Hindu mythology, but in Jain and Buddhist stories also. The Balinese believe that the original Mount Maru, located somewhere on the Indian continent, was transported to Bali by Shiva, where it was then split into two.
The two sides represent the Balinese concept of duality and the importance of maintaining a balance between the forces of dark and light.
Sidemen Village
After our temple visit, we drive on toward the valley of Sidemen village. We drive down a narrow, bumpy and rather steep scary road with sharp turns. Luckily no other vehicles are going up while we are going down, as there is barely enough space for one vehicle.
In the valley, the shades of patchwork green rice fields and other crops are luminously bright.
A farmer packs a wooden container tight with his recent plant cuttings.
A flock of creamy and charcoal colored ducks, all move in unison along the side of the pathway.
A freshly tilled field creates a landscape design.
So glad we added this stop to our excursion. Love the visuals of rice cultivation through the various phases of the cycle.
What a beautiful place this is, I imagine rather isolated and difficult to get to. Isn’t it amazing how many shades of green there are, each delineating a different plant. The temple is stunning in its complex carvings and multi-layered architecture. Are the roof tiers meant to suggest the soul rising to a more divine plane? Doesn’t the third eye also suggest opening the soul to lift its consciousness? So in both physical and spiritual presence, the soul ascends to a holy level? That’s why, I guess, the priest didn’t want you to enter unless you wanted to pray: so that the physical attributes of the temple would immerse you. The loveliness of the temple isn’t meant to entertain but to engage you in prayer. Thank you for a wonderful spiritual respite.
Sharon thanks for your thoughtful comments and questions. We are by no means experts in Balinese Hinduism. But the part we can address is that the distinction between the public grounds and the holy grounds for prayers, does serve to protect the holiest inner sanctum from excessive tourist crowds. It creates a palpably tranquil space where one can commune with one of the three gods.
When we were there, there were no tourists as it was out of season…. but it is easy to imagine that the serenity of the religious space would be compromised should anyone be able to enter. The Balinese have done an extremely good job of preserving their cultural traditions and religion, both the physical infrastructure and the intangible daily practice of reverence to the gods.
It is interesting how our physical yoga practice does touch on more metaphysical dimensions of both Buddhism and Hinduism. The chakras, energetic points in the body where the physical, emotional, spiritual, intellectual bodies connect, are often reflected in sculptures in these religions. The third eye is one such point, that we recognise from our yoga practice.
Peta & Ben
Ubud is a complete delight. Happy Holidays.
Thanks Peggy. To you too.
Fascinating post, as always.
Thanks Anabel, glad you enjoyed it.
Ducks! Thanks for that, and I forgive you for not posting nude photos under the waterfall. Blessings abound. Love
Haha, glad you enjoyed the ducks nonetheless. xoxox
P
Enchanting. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed this post Johnny.
So interesting and beautiful. One of your best posts!
Thanks Boyd, so glad you enjoyed it.
Peta
Beautiful! I love reading of your travels and discoveries!
Deb
Thanks so much Deb!
Peta
This is not a part of the world that I had ever contemplated travel until I discovered your blog. It has been a delight to learn from the two of you. Happy holidays and lots of wonderful adventures in 2019!
LuAnn, so glad we introduced our “neighborhood” to you, and perhaps you will visit one day. Indonesia is chockfull of interesting destinations and we feel as though we have just touched the surface. Lots of wonderful adventures to you too for 2019!
Peta
Bali is such a beautiful place. This post brought back so many memories. We went to Besakih and were allowed inside – perhaps because we were wearing traditional Balinese clothing. We were told it was a requirement. Also we were invited to join our guide and his wife to take part in a ceremony in Batur Temple at an annual two-week pilgrimage. This was such a special experience for us. We were also lucky enough to attend a funeral.
It sounds as though Bali was a very beautiful and auspicious time for you. May it continue throughout the new year.
Blessings.
Glad to have reopened the box of memories for you. On our last visit to Bali we were invited by a puppeteer to attend a special 30 year rare ceremony, and for us too, it was a very unique experience. Having done that on our first visit, we were quite content to primarily walk the grounds at Besakih. Great that you had an opportunity to attend a funeral, because the Indonesian relationship to death is so very different to a Western one. The open air cremation part of the death rituals was surprising to us… even though we knew about it, it was quite different to see the open flames on the side of the road.
Hope 2019 will be a healthy and adventurous one for both of you.
Peta
More wonderful experiences in Bali. While I know you were really enjoying the tranquility and βjust beingβ in Ubud, Iβm glad (and Iβm sure you are as well) that you set out on these explorations. That walk to the waterfall and the falls themselves looks exquisite. The greens of the rice paddies… wow, to think that it was overcast when you took those colorful shots.
And, to top it off, your visit to the temple seemed to have been timed perfectly. I hope the blessings come through. There is nothing like working very hard on a project and then being satisfied and somehow rewarded at the end. Wishing Ben success in 2019 and you both more fantastic adventures and tropical immersions.
Liesbet thanks for continuing to give us enthusiastic feedback. We work hard for those tips..:)
There is of course a fine balance between having down chill time and making the effort to see new things. We were very pleased with our day trip. I think also knowing that we have more travel upcoming, we opted for enjoying our immediate environment rather than rushing around trying to see as much as possible.
Thanks for the good wishes for success in Ben’s professional endeavours. Wishing both of you an adventurous and healthy 2019 with lots of good stuff to come.
Peta
Thanks so very much, Peta, for this enchanting visit to Bali. Your post was rich with descriptions and photos of life, culture, religion, tradition, sweetness, past and present. You always have a way of mesmerizing me, bringing me deeper into your world as you share the golden moments.
I found the split gateway fascinating in the cremation photo (my favorite photo of all of them), and was grateful for the explanation later. Also enjoyed the mysterious visit to the waterfall, and the surprise that you found as you waded through. Loved the description of the sign that led you there.
Especially enjoyed seeing the local people and their ways, and always a joy to see you and Ben participating, joining them. A total joy here today, as always.
Thank you Jet for your unabashed enthusiasm. It is so very nice to read feedback that shows that the richness of our travel experience is coming across.
We too loved the symbolism of the split mountain and the duality between good and evil that is central to Balinese Hinduism. No doubt there is a lot that we could learn to add to our nascent understanding of Balinese Hinduism, but each trip we learn a little more. We have seen these split gateways, large and small, pretty much everywhere in Ubud and wondered what the significance is. Sometimes our blog is a “forcing function” for us to do a little bit more research than we might otherwise.
Peta & Ben
I was thinking, as I saw the first photo, that the waterfall might not be so big and then you said you were wondering too. It was definitely worth the wading to see it though. What a beautiful and peaceful place the temple is.
Carol, the force of that waterfall on our heads was surprising too, as it was so strong and energizing. We were certainly not expecting that we would be the only ones there. These unexpected side trips are for us often the hidden gems as we usually go in with no expectation, no logistics for that particular discovery, so it is that much more fun when it works out so well.
Ben
Following the sign for “Big waterfall this way” and finding such a gorgeous place seems like the perfect metaphor for your approach to travel and life. It’s your open, curious, and adventurous natures that invite the magic that you experience. May this coming year be filled with many more beautiful adventures!
Laurel thank you for framing the waterfall excursion as a metaphor for our approach to travel and life. It works, doesn’t it?
thanks for the new year wishes ~ to you both as well!
Peta
This all looks so lovely. Tranquil, lush and inviting. I love the ceremonial group on the temple steps. You have made me want to hang out in Ubud.
Thanks Tracey. Bali is most definitely lush and inviting and tranquil once one gets away from the areas that are full of visitors. And it is not difficult to do….
Hope you DO get a chance to hang out in Ubud, it is a special place indeed.
Peta
Another incredible post. That waterfall! The rice paddies! The temples and joy at cremation. The blessing and love that seem to surround the area and its residents. Joy. Peace. Good will to you both.
Thanks Pamela for your enthusiasm. We have been on a winning streak here of travel… and are trying to keep up so that the blog does not fall too far behind real life. We had scheduled to stay in Bali for ten days but ended up staying for three weeks, and could easily have stayed longer. A wonderful 2019 year to you!!
Peta
Wow! If this doesnβt make one want to pack their bags and hop on a plane Iβm not sure what would. Finding the waterfall seems like the grand prize in a nature scavenger hunt. All the lush green is soothing to our frosty winter environment. I think I feel a bit warmer having merely read your lovely post.
Sue it is interesting, that even though we come from Sri Lanka where it is green and lush and pretty beautiful, Ubud still blows us away each time. There is no other place where we go to sleep hearing a chorus of frogs through the night. Not even our home in Sri Lanka has a frog chorus. Birds, yes, monkeys yes.. but the acapella of frogs is a unique sound and we have only heard it here. Sending you some warmth to your land of frost. Stay warm and thanks for all your enthusiastic support of our blog!! Happy 2019 to you both ~ here is to adventure, discovery, health and happiness.
Peta & Ben
Bali is such a special place. It just feels so good being there. Thank you for sharing and reminding me.
Wishing you a healthy and happy new year.
Steve you are right on both counts. It was SO much fun to remind OURSELVES how at home we feel there and how much we love it. There are so many factors that for us make it a pretty unique and special place.
Wonderful 2019 to you both as well.
Peta & Ben
Thanks for taking us on this excursion with you. On this chilly Canadian winter morning, I could imagine the anticipation of finding this waterfall in the Balinese heat … and even better, enjoying the cool shower π
Glad to have brought you some Balinese warmth to your Canadian chill! Waterfalls can be hit and miss, but this one was definitely a hit. Even worth the muddy climb down and up again after the rains from the day before.
Peta
The landscape looks fabulous, Peta. Imagine growing up there! It might be a hard place to leave. π π And that little girl is gorgeous. All the very best to you and Ben in fast approaching 2019.
Funny you should mention growing up in Ubud, as when we were at a different temple, I noticed a family with a young child sitting quietly in prayer and was thinking about how very different his life already is, from that of a Western child. And how the serene and peaceful upbringing in nature and respect for nature, combined with the reverence to the gods must be a wonderful gift to give a young child.
Happy new year to you as well. To a wonderful and adventurous 2019.
Peta
We were there before 3 months for a vacation, Bali is really a beautiful place. Sri Lanka and Maldives also have similar places like Bali, actually I like Maldives more than Bali because I love the beaches there.
Thanks for your comments Dimitri. Maldives is on our list for destinations for 2019 and our home base is in Sri Lanka. It is true that there are some similarities between Sri Lanka and Bali (both are lush and tropical), but the history is so very different. Sri Lanka sadly has had to endure civil war for almost thirty years and after that, a devastating tsunami. These tragic factors have had their impact on Sri Lankans as a people.
Peta
I have never been to this part of the world and very much long to visit. Your beautiful pictures and descriptions make me feel like I am there with you. I hope the blessings you got at the temple will come through in 2019. Health, love and many adventures for the year ahead π
Thanks so much Gilda. Wishing you both all the best for 2019.
I do hope you get an opportunity to go to Ubud, as it really is a very special place. And if you go in off season and stay out in an area that is not central, you will no doubt fall in love with it too.
Peta
Looking at your photos, Peta, makes me realise what a beautiful country my dad was born and lived in until as a very young man he had to enlist in the Navy during WW2. He met and married my mom in London after the war and because of financial constraints, didn’t go back to visit ‘home’ until after his retirement. I’m sure he missed Indonesia every day of his life.
Sylvia what a fascinating personal history. Thank you for sharing that with us. I’m betting that you are right on that assessment and that he did miss Indonesia every day. Where did he grow up in Indonesia? And second question: Have you been yet/visited your ancestral roots?
Peta
I so appreciate this post. Right at this moment I’m in the middle of researching places off the beaten path in Bali. My sister lives near Ubud, which I think will be too trendy for me to hang out in for the entire stay. I’m sure I’ll appreciate all that good food, but too much trendiness is not my style. I prefer authentic. Very intrigued by the split gateways in the temple. I bet it’s a profound feeling to walk through them.
J.D. you can easily find authentic on the outskirts of Ubud. And if you are comfortable riding a motorbike then there are so many villages and everyday life every where you look really. We stayed in Penestanan which is pretty quiet for the most part and not sure I would call it “trendy”. Nyukunin is also not trendy, and a lovely place to stay. Much depends on how in season it is when you are there… This directly impacts the experience as the CENTER of Ubud gets very crowded. But the second you are out of Ubud, there is authenticity everywhere.
You could also visit and or stay in places such as Sideman, or a multitude of others. For us Ubud was crucial as I need the focus on plantbased healthy food and the daily yoga. But other than that, I would be staying in a more rural location for sure.
Take a look at our archives for Amhed and the butterfly sanctuary in different parts of Bali, for some of our favorite places outside of Ubud.
Peta