Chiang Mai was the center of the Lanna Empire eons ago. Naturally isolated from the distant Capital of Bangkok, due to a forbidding mountainous terrain all around, Chiang Mai has a provincial feel. More laid back, less hurried and easily navigated by scooter, Chiang Mai is a favorite destination both for travelers and for a large expat community. (Additionally, Thailand gets most of its many visitors from November through March, so happily we are not subjected to throngs of tourists.)
The first layer of our discovery process centers on the city’s ample architectural and spiritual heritage, as dozens of Wats (Buddhist temples) dot the city. The “old city” is framed by the remnant of what must have once been an imposing fortress like “wall”. Little remains today of this structure, but the moat that surrounded this walled city remains intact (as do a few of the gate entrances), and serves as a useful point of reference as we make our way through our new surroundings.
Unlike Bangkok whose majestic temples were imposing both in size and the mind blowing jeweled exteriors, we find Chiang Mai’s temples to reveal themselves and their artistic beauty through individual sculptures.
Stone carved, teak, emerald or golden – seated or standing hindu-influenced Buddhist sculptures attest to the artistic talent that accompanied the spread of Buddhism in the Northern Thai region.
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| Ganesh ~ Evidence of Hindu Buddhism influence in this region. |
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| Chiang Mai has many stone chedis, compared with the ornate and gold ones we saw in Bangkok. |
“Chedi” is the Thai name for what is referred to in most of Asia, as a “Stupa” which literally means a “heap” ~ A mound like structure containing Buddhist relics, typically the ashes of Buddhist monks and used by Buddhists as a place of meditation. The Stupa (sometimes called Pagoda in East Asia) has varied forms which include bell shaped and pyramidal styles. The shape of the Chedi or Stupa represents the Buddha crowned and sitting in meditation posture. His crown is the top of the spire, his head is the square of the spires base, his body is the vase shape, his legs are the four steps of the lower terrace and the base is his thrown.
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| Many of the Wats are lit up and open at night. |
Wat Doi Suthep is a Theravada Buddhist Temple (of the Hindu Buddhist tradition.) The temple was founded in 1383 when the first Chedi was built. The original founding of the temple remains a legend and there are a few versions. The most interesting one involves a white elephant. A piece of Buddha’s shoulder bone, a relic that displayed magical powers and glowed in the dark was placed on a white elephant. The elephant is said to have climbed up the mountain which was then called Sugar Elephant Mountain, trumpeted 3 times before dying at the site. It was interpreted as a sign and the then King ordered a construction of a temple at the site, of what is now Wat Doi Suthep.
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| A section of a beautiful wall mural at Wat Doi Suthep painted in pastel tones. Siddhartha (the Buddha) as a young baby. |
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| Flying through the air. |
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| Siddhartha the Buddha cut off his hair to show that he had renounced the worldy lifestyle. |
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| A very simple, very elegant bronze sculpture of Buddha. |
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| Marble Buddha, covered with a woven traditional orange robe. |
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| Namaste. It’s infectious. |
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| A sculpture of one of the founding monks of Doi Sutthep Temple, surrounded by sculptures of the Buddha. |
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| Tigers and other wild animals roamed freely in the jungles of the area. There are still a few today, but they are endangered and spotting one is highly unlikely these days. |
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| A monk prepares to bless us with prayer as well as a good sprinkling of holy water. Brightly painted murals grace the walls behind him with scenes of the Buddha’s life. |
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| The equivalent of “Baruch Atuh Adonay….” |
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| A luminous emerald Buddha. This region was known for its gem trade and continues to this day to supply emerald and other precious stones for the world market. |
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| Most visitors to Doi Sutthep (and in fact most Wats) are Asian and Buddhists. A man lights a ritual candle. |
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| These Thai girls in matching pink outfits are enjoying the ritual of candle lighting and walking around the main area of the Temple with a lotus flower bud in hand. |
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| Shrine decorated in gold and bright blue with carved doors. |
The temple of Doi Sutthep sits near the top of the mountain (Doi Sutthep). A few kilometers from the temple, lies a Royal Palace that continues to host the King of Thailand when he visits Chiang Mai. When he is not in residence, the grounds are open to the public as a Botanic Garden, created by Queen Sirikhit. The height of the mountain is such that the Palace bathes in a blanket of clouds on most days and has a beautiful misty quality.
We really enjoyed riding our motorcycle up the mountain, through a dense forest which makes up the National Park.
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| The Rose garden, Royal Palace grounds. Chiang Mai. |
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| Literally walking in a cloud. The mist surrounds the water reservoir which has piped in classical music to add to the loveliness of the experience. |
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| Giant bamboo soars up into the clouds. Bamboo being a flexible grass, creates a natural chiming sound as it sways gently in the wind. |
Hi Peta and Ben,
It’s good to see that all have recovered from Dengue fever. Great that you can continue on your travels. What an amazing place it looks like. I can hardly believe that you are really there. Keep sending the wonderful posts.
Zwi
Thanks Zwi! We have heard a lot about Chiang Mai from other travelers, so it’s great to experience it first hand!
Glad you made it safely. Amazing how you always look so elegant, with just the contents of a backpack…
That giant bamboo is very impressive.
You don’t make a good buddha, got to work on looking “inscrutable”, your smile is way too wide Hahaha!!
Miss you…
Well, thank you! The important thing is I think that one smiles. To quote Thich Nhat Hanh, (I’m reading his writings right now…) “sometimes being happy makes you smile, but sometimes to smile makes you happy.” So I forgo inscrutability and opt for wider smiling.
Miss you too! xoxox
Every time I read an entry, I want to throw caution to the wind, pack my bags, and hop on a plane – alas, I am still bound by the chains of capitalism. This looks simply gorgeous, and the lifestyle clearly brings out the sunshine for you. Love to Ben xoxox
Adrienne
Yes, throw caution to the wind, pack your bags and hop on a plane! The chains of capitalism are more “breakable” than you think, they are made of green paper, not steel. It is amazing in fact how easy it is to disconnect.
Ben: There are two models: Earn more and more (and spend accordingly), or spend and consume less and less (and find ways to earn income accordingly.) Much love your way xoxox
I love this post! Thanks for sharing! Reading your post makes me miss Chiang Mai!
Thanks Nancy.
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